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Mission San Jose: The One in Fremont Where Estanislao Lived🌄

Moving along the El Camino Real1, I made my visit to Mission San Jose last month. I naturally assumed by its name that it was located somewhere in San Jose. Interestingly enough, it’s actually located in the city of Fremont!

Getting to Mission San Jose

Unless you already live in or nearby Fremont, I think the best way to get to the city is by car or BART. I chose to ride the BART train, which conveniently brings you to Fremont station.

The Fremont BART station.

Once you arrive, exit to the East Plaza where there’s a bus bay for AC Transit buses:

I took Bus 211, which takes you straight to the Old Mission. The distance from the BART station to the Mission is only about a 10 minute drive, but it takes about 20 minutes by bus. That being said, it’s a pleasant ride through the city. You’ll pass by a high school and street named after the Mission, along with mission-style buildings:

Mission San Jose High School.
Check out this mission-style McDonald’s!
Mission Boulevard. Along the road was this monument marked “Mission San Jose 1797 Fremont California” along with El Camino Real mission bells.

First Impressions

Mission San José, August 2025.

As Google Maps advised, I got off at Mission & Washington Blvd. and faced up close the Mission I had only seen in pictures. I have to say, it was so much larger than I had expected! I think it’s actually bigger than Mission Dolores and Mission Santa Clara. Facing it up close, Mission San José was a giant, white block of a chapel, uniquely imposing in its simple grandeur.

The Mission was right on a busy road and atop an elevated area, below regional parks and mountains like Mission Peak. Unlike Mission Dolores and Mission Santa Clara, it also had a long, semi-circle flight of stairs:

It was large also in terms of its extent. Per this map stationed at the front, the Mission Church was part of a complex of buildings that included a separate visitor’s center called, “Pilgrim Center,” a museum, cemetery, St. Joseph Main Church, Dream Garden, St. Joseph School, and more:

Map of St. Joseph Catholic Church/Mission San Jose & Diocesan Shrine of St. Joseph.

With so many spots to check out, I wasn’t sure where to head to first. But since my main focus was the Old Mission, I decided to go where the “Mission San Jose” signage was pointing to: the Pilgrim Center.

The Pilgrim Center & Mission Museum.

Pilgrim Center (Visitor’s Center & Gift Shop)

Walking up the ramp and passing by adorable (and maybe historic?) benches, I arrived at the entrance to the Pilgrim Center.

*NOTE: Mission San José, its Pilgrim Center & Museum are all closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Click HERE for the hours.

When I pushed open the wooden door, I was immediately met with this view of historical artifacts, timeline, and an informational video playing in the background:

What you see right when you enter the Pilgrim Center. There were wooden benches for visitors to watch the informational video and/or rest. Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D80FaxvbDTA

On the left-hand side was the entryway to the Gift Shop:

Informational one-pagers on the Mission along with relevant books.
The Gift Shop was a large room selling items for both religious Catholics and visiting tourists. The room beyond it looked like the Mission Office, but it seemed only open to staff.

There were souvenirs like magnets, keychains, crosses, postcards, and more. (Some items are even available for purchase online! Link to Mission San Jose Online Gift-Shop: https://oldmissionsanjose.square.site/)

The cash register area where you can purchase your California Missions Passport (with the Mission San José cover) and get your stamp!

On the right was the front area for purchasing admissions tickets and entering the Museum:

And while I didn’t have to for Mission Dolores, I needed to check in my backpack before entering the Museum. (I was allowed to take my small bag with me, though.) The staff at the front also handed me this high-quality pamphlet:

The visitors’ guide pamphlet.

Admission for one adult was $15, which costs more than the admissions ticket at Mission Dolores. But as I’ll share later, it was totally worth it!

Before proceeding with my self-guided tour (or reading the pamphlet for that matter), I had to linger a while to look at all the artifacts and paintings displayed in the Pilgrim Center. I hadn’t even begun my self-guided tour yet but was already flooded with so much history!

Wooden priest wearing robe and sandals next to plaque commemorating Fray Junípero Serra, presented by Serra International.

And before a comprehensive review of the Mission Museum, here’s a brief history of Mission San José!

History of Mission San José

The Beginnings

Founded on June 11, 1797, Mission San José was the 14th of the 21 Spanish missions established in California. It was founded by Fermín de Francisco Lasuén de Arasqueta, a Basque Franciscan missionary. Born in Vitoria, Spain on June 7, 1736, Fermín Francisco de Lasuén became a Franciscan priest in 1752. Serving as a missionary in Mexico and then in California, he spent the rest of his life in California until his death at Mission San Carlos Borromeo in Carmel-By-The-Sea. As Junipero Serra’s successor as president of the California missions, Lasuén established 9 more missions after Serra’s death.

Portrait of Father Fermín Francisco de Lasuén inside the Mission Museum.

Mission San José came after Mission Nuestra Señora de la Soledad and before Mission San Juan Bautista (both founded by Fermin Francisco de Lasuen.) What’s interesting about the California missions is that they weren’t established in geographical order. One would assume Mission San José was founded after its closest neighbor, Mission Santa Clara, but it wasn’t.

Drawing of Mission San José at the Mission Museum. It was shown in the San Francisco Sunday Chronicle.

Ties to Mission Santa Clara

Drawing of Mission Santa Clara at the Mission Museum. It was also shown in the San Francisco Sunday Chronicle.

However, Mission Santa Clara, which was founded 20 years earlier, was crucial to Mission San José’s beginnings. It was the Native Americans who had already been baptized at Mission Santa Clara who built Mission San José and became part of the new community in Fremont, area known back then as Oroysom.

According to Francis Florence McCarthy’s The History of Mission San Jose, Mission Santa Clara even sent a gift of “600 cows, 4 teams of oxen, 3 mules, 4 tame horse, 2 bulls, 28 steers and…a flock of 78 sheep, 2 rams, and 20 other sheep.”

And it was Father Magín Catalá of Mission Santa Clara who performed the first baptism at Mission San José, to a Native American woman named Josefa. (To read about Magín Catalá and Mission Santa Clara, click HERE.)

Copy of the 1797 Baptism Register displayed inside the Museum.

But Why Mission “San José “?

You may wonder as I did: why is the Mission called, “Mission San José” when it’s not even in San Jose? I found out that it’s because the Mission is named after St. Joseph, the stepfather of Jesus and husband of Mary, just as the city of San Jose is. Because St. Joseph is the patron saint of pioneers, many of the early settlements in California were founded in his honor.

Stained Glass window art of St. Joseph and baby Jesus. Photo by Josh Applegate.

So, that’s why: Mission San José and the city of San Jose are both named after St. Joseph. (He also happens to be one of Santa Clara University’s patron saints, along with St. Clare of Assisi and St. Ignatius of Loyola.) This is explained inside the Mission Museum, along with more interesting facts:

The full name of the Mission was “La Mision del Gloriosisimo Patriarch San Jose.” But according to the visitors’ guide, it is now known as “the parish of St. Joseph Catholic Church, Mission San José of the Diocese of Oakland.”

Early Years

Earliest drawing of Mission San José. By Captain William Smyth, 1826. Displayed inside the Mission Museum. To view it digitally, click HERE.

During its early years, Mission San José was where Franciscan missionaries taught the Ohlone Native Americans Christianity and Spanish ways of life, including cattle and wheat farming. The very first missionaries arrived at the Mission on June 28, 1797, about 2 weeks after its dedication.

Earliest photograph of Mission San José, 1852. Displayed inside the Museum. For more historical photos & drawings of the Mission, visit: https://www.saintjosephmsj.org/mission-images-of-mission-san-jose/mission-historical-drawings/
Lithograph of Bay Area Native Americans (based on watercolor by Louis Choris), 1816.

From just 33 Native Americans in 1797, the Native American population in the Mission reached 1,886 by 1831. But the population fell drastically after epidemics; about 80 percent of the Native Americans in the Mission died due to European diseases. The Mission recruited diverse Native American groups to maintain itself (as it was the Native Americans who did all the work at the Mission), and it soon became a hub of different Native American peoples, including the Ohlone; Bay, Coast, and Plains Miwoks; Yokuts; and Delta Yokuts. With its diverse population, Mission San José thrived and became prosperous from all the ranching and farming.

Drawing of Mission San José by Henry Miller (1857), displayed in the Museum.

The Native American Perspective

What’s fascinating and heartbreaking at the same time is what the Native Americans experienced. They came in contact with people and animals like horses that they had never seen before. Intrigued and hospitable to the newcomers, they traded goods with them and eventually worked at the Mission during the day while living in their villages. But when diseases killed large numbers of their population and livestock grazing disrupted their livelihood, they had no choice but to live at the Mission, where they were expected to work and participate in religious activities.

What becomes more tragic is that neophyte2 Indians could not leave the Mission without permission once baptized. Even if they were allowed, they had to return no matter what; otherwise, soldiers would be sent to catch them. Their freedoms were further restricted in other ways. They were rebuked and/or punished when they didn’t obey orders, and Priest Pedro de la Cueva confiscated ornaments and other items related to ritual dancing, giving them back only when he allowed a performance. (But the Native Americans at Mission San José fared better than those at Mission Santa Cruz, who were even whipped when they didn’t follow orders!)

Photo by Wolfgang Hasselmann.

And again, Native Americans did all the work at the Mission, from constructing it to farming, weaving, cooking and more.

The work of Franciscan missionaries who risked their lives to spread the Christian faith is incredible. Though there were unexemplary priests, there were those who actually followed Christ and lived sacrificial lives, treating the Native Americans with love. Yet, because the missions were part of Spanish Empire’s goal of subjugating Native Americans, they had inherent elements that reflected its imperial nature.

Photo by Adolfo Félix.

Accounts from Explorers

Did you know that explorers from Russia set foot in the Bay and its missions? I knew about their explorations in the Arctic and Alaska but I had no idea that they actually traveled all the way down to Fremont! And these explorers wrote and drew about missions like Mission Dolores and Mission San José, along with the Native American inhabitants:

Russian explorer Nikolai Rezanov (left) & German naturalist Georg von Langsdorff (right).

🧭A Russian count named Nicolai Rezanov led an expedition into the San Francisco Bay in 1806 and had a chance to visit Mission San José. German naturalist/physician Georg von Langsdorff was there to write all about it in his book, Voyages and Travels in Various Parts of the World, During the Years 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, and 1807 (talk about a long title!) Below is his drawing of the dancers he saw at Mission San José in 1806 along with a diorama at the Mission Museum showing dancer figures as depicted by Langsdorff:

HERE is a better photo of Langsdorff’s drawing.

🧭In addition to Rezanov and Langsdorff, there were Otto von Kotzebue and Louis Choris.

Baltic German naval officer Otto von Kotzebue (left) & German-Russian artist Louis Choris (right).

Kotzebue visited the Bay Area multiple times during his voyages to find a sea route through the Arctic. Louis Choris was the expedition artist who accompanied him, and many of his drawings are shown throughout the Mission Museum:

To view better photos of the drawings above and for more works by Choris, visit the official Muwekma Ohlone Tribe website at: https://www.muwekma.org/customs-traditions.html

Secularization & Rancho Era

Just like the rest of the California missions, Mission San José was secularized in 1836 after Mexico’s revolution in 1821 ended Spanish colonial rule. And like the rest, it fell into decay. The Mexican Governor appointed administrators to take over the Mission, divided up mission lands into “ranchos” and gave them out to powerful families.

First administrator of Mission San José, Jose de Jesus Vallejo. He wrote that “many men of little scruples” defrauded Native Americans of “what was justly theirs as parceled out by the authorities.”

The ecosystem as well as the buildings of what had once been Mission San José deteriorated. And the Native Americans who had lived at the Mission were unable to claim the lands held in trust for them by the Franciscan friars. While some worked at the ranchos and at the San Jose Pueblo and those who recently joined the Mission returned back to their villages, many died of starvation and disease.

To summarize, Mission San José started out as a mission where Franciscan missionaries shared their faith with the Native Americans of the Bay, under the rule and provision of the Spanish Empire. Then the Mexican government took over the Mission, secularized its lands and gave them out to Californio3 families, ushering in the Rancho Era. It experienced even more changes when the Mexican-American War of 1846 broke out. American settlers from the east arrived in large numbers and squatted on the lands of the Californios. Then with America’s victory and discovery of gold in 1848, a record number of immigrants flooded into California.

Gold miners at miner’s camp in El Dorado, California. Photo from the Library of Congress. Per Remembering California Missions by Janice Stevens, Gold Rush miners called the Mission “Mission San Joe” (77).

California Statehood

With California’s statehood in 1850, the Mission’s ecosystem and landscape forever changed. It was used as a store/saloon until the American government returned a small part of the Mission land back to the Catholic Church. And in 1865 under President Lincoln’s leadership, some missions, including Mission San José, were given back to the Catholic Church.

Tragically for the Native Americans, their plight “became nothing short of hell,” with the arrival of the early Anglo pioneers as they faced slavery, disease, liquor, massacre, and genocide (from Jack Holterman’s “The Revolt of Estanislao” in Indian Historian 3.1, p54).

Photo of Mission San José, circa. 1866 by Thomas Houseworth & Co. From the Library of Congress.

More History: Chief Estanislao

Before visiting Mission San José, I did a quick search online and read that there was this Native American leader named “Estanislao” who led hundreds in a revolt. I couldn’t find much info on Estanislao throughout my visit except for this one-pager that mentioned his name once:

One-pager titled, “Unrest at the Mission.” I’ve digitally highlighted Estanislao’s name, which is mentioned just once.

But I think his story deserves more than just a quick mention!

Life of Estanislao

Born in present-day Modesto, CA, Estanislao was called “Cucunuchi” before being baptized as “Estanislao.” Some sources, like A Cross of Thorns by Elias Castillo and Jack Holterman’s “The Revolt of Estanislao,” say that he was born at the Mission with some Spanish ancestry. He was part of the Lakisamni tribe of the Yokuts people and lived on the banks of the Stanislaus River, known back then as “Río de los Laquisimes.”

The Franciscan missionaries invited Estanislao to receive a Christian education at Mission San José, and in 1821, he was baptized at the Mission. While living in Mission San José, he was an “alcade,” or a municipal magistrate appointed to oversee other Native Americans. Various contemporaries wrote about him, pointing out that Estanislao stood out both in his appearance and abilities.

“About six feet tall, a bit more fair in
complexion than usual, a man of athletic physique
with a face well bearded and an air of gallantry on
horseback-such was Estanislao.”

From Jack Holterman’s Article, “The Revolt of Estanislao.” 1970.

I couldn’t find any paintings of Estanislao, so I drew him myself, after a statue in Modesto, CA.

The Revolt

When Estanislao and other Lacquisamnes were given permission to visit their native homes in the fall of 18284, they decided not to return. Estanislao wrote a letter to Friar Narciso Durán announcing their decision:

“We are rising in revolt… We have no fear of the soldiers, for even now they are very few, mere boys… and not even sharp shooters.”

Estanislao’s message to Durán. From Robert H. Jackson and Edward Castillo’s book, Indians, Franciscans, and Spanish Colonization: The Impact of the Mission System on California Indians.

Leading other baptized Native Americans back to their lands, Estanislao revolted against the Mexican government and the missions. He joined forces with other Native Americans who had also been abused, including those from Mission San Juan Bautista and the notorious Mission Santa Cruz. A Native American leader from Mission Santa Clara named Cipriano and his followers also joined him.

“You will tell our good Father that from now on our real exploits begin. Soon we shall fall upon the very ranches and cornfields… And for the troops, now as always, we have nothing but contempt and defiance!”

Message from Estanislao to Durán, delivered by a neophyte named Macario. From Elias Castillo’s A Cross of Thorns: The Enslavement of California’s Indians by the Spanish Missions.

Surrender & Forgiveness

Though they fought bravely and were able to withstand attacks from the Mexican army multiple times, Estanislao and his followers eventually had to surrender.

On May 31, 1829, Estanislao returned to Mission San José and asked Narciso Durán for forgiveness. Friar Durán forgave Estanislao and his men, petitioning Governor José María de Echeandía to forgive him as well. Durán also charged the commander Ensign Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo with the atrocities he and his men had committed against Native American civilians during their attempts to capture Estanislao. Though there was a hearing ordered by the Governor, only one soldier was charged with the crime of killing a woman and sentenced to just five years of servitude.

With the pardon granted on October 7, 1829, the short-lived revolt by Estanislao came to an end.

Returning to Mission San José, Estanislao taught Yokuts language and culture until his death. Along with the exact details of the final years of his life, the date and cause of his death vary. Some sources write that he passed in 1839 during a malaria epidemic while others state that it was in 1838 due to a smallpox. I also came across a book that said it was in 1832 when he died of smallpox.

Significance of Estanislao’s Story

Local History

I think Estanislao and his story are significant for a number of reasons. First of all, Stanislaus River and County are all named after him. Per Historic Modesto, the battles between Chief Estanislao and the Mexican army took place by the Stanislaus River. Meaning “glorious” in Slavic, Stanislaus is the original for the Spanish name of “Estanislao.” From Stanislaus River, Stanislaus County and other names like Stanislaus National Forest and California State University, Stanislaus followed.

Native American History

Secondly, Estanislao’s revolt shows the plight Native Americans experienced with the arrival of new settlers. As mentioned earlier, they weren’t allowed to leave the missions whenever they wanted. Not only that but they were forced to work and abide to rules enforced on them, being punished if not obeying. And many of these rules being forced upon them went against their old ways of living, including traditional marriage practices. Situations in the missions had become so bad that Native Americans had to take the matters into their own hands. Estanislao’s revolt gives insight to what they had to endure and what they did to protect the loss of their freedom, dignity, and culture.

Photo by Cristian Siallagan.

*It’s important to note that Estanislao and his followers fought to fend off the Mexican army and protect their freedoms. According to the Stanislaus River Archive, there is “no indication in the records that his rebellion against the Mexicans and Spanish ever involved attacking others, just defending his freedom against the attacks aimed against him.” Despite this, there were casualties on both sides. And Native American civilians, including elderly women, were murdered when Commander Vallejo and his men “viciously lash[ed] out at any Indian they found” (Castillo 188).

Not only was there Estanislao’s Revolt at Mission San José and Cipriano’s uprising at Mission Santa Clara, but there were also a host of other rebellions: at Mission Dolores (led by Pomponio in the early 1820s), another one at Mission Santa Clara led by Yozcolo (a Lacquisamne alcalde like Estanislao), and virtually at all the missions. As written by the author Elias Castillo, these Native American rebellions like Estanislao’s revolt are testaments of individuals “willing to sacrifice their lives to try to halt an inhumane system” (190).

Fremont, CA. September 2025.

Effects of True and False Christianity

Thirdly, it’s a clear example of how true Christian way of living brings different peoples together while false Christian way of living tears society apart. Many Native Americans welcomed the newcomers into their lands, and accepted the Christian faith that the Franciscan missionaries shared and taught. They respected those who truly followed Jesus in their ways of living, including Father Magín Catalá of Mission Santa Clara.

It was when so-called priests forced obedience upon the Native Americans and punished them (with whips!), and when foreigners subjugated and treated them with no dignity that the Native Americans took initiatives to protect themselves. Estanislao’s revolt exemplies the effect of false and true Christianity, from the eruption of conflict to the reconciliation at the end.

It shows that different cultures, nations, and peoples can only become one in truth, love, and forgiveness: in Christ.

Interesting Facts About Mission San José

🌉Mission San José is the only mission on the east side of the San Francisco Bay.

⛪It’s the second largest mission, right after Mission San Luis Rey. (It definitely felt bigger than Mission Dolores and Mission Santa Clara at first glance!)

🐄Mission San José was not only one of the biggest, but also one of the most prosperous. Per the Mission Museum, there were 12,000 cattle, 13,000 sheep and 13,000 horses in 1831. It’s hard to imagine that there were that many livestock at this site once upon a time:

Up this slope is Mission San José & the Mission Museum.

🎟️The Mission San José museum building is the only surviving structure from the original 1809 Mission.

🎼Music played a big role at Mission San José. While Native Americans of the area had their own music and instruments like timbrels, whistles, flutes, and rattles, they were attracted to those brought by the Spanish missionaries. Friar Narciso Durán (the one who forgave and accepted Estanislao back to the Mission) led the way of teaching Spanish and religious music. From 1806 to 1833, he composed music and organized Indian choir, orchestra, and concerts, launching Mission San José’s musical fame throughout California.

19th century engraving of Narciso Durán and Native American girl, displayed inside the Mission Museum.
Page copied from the 1813 choir book by Narciso Durán, accompanied by information on Mission San José’s musicians. To view a digitized version of Durán’s choir book, check out Santa Clara University’s “Mission Santa Clara Music Manuscripts” collection HERE.

The Mission Museum

Now, back to the Mission Museum. Once the convento or sleeping quarters of the Franciscan friars, the Mission Museum is a series of rooms connected by small openings. Each room has a theme like “The Franciscan Journey,” that details the lives of Franciscan missionaries or “The Ohlone Indians: The Indian Way,” that explains everything about the original inhabitants of the area.

Map shown on the visitors’ guide.

Room #2 “Divine Pilgrimage: The Holy Family”

The first room you get to once you enter the museum is the “Divine Pilgrimage: The Holy Family” room.

It’s a white room filled with Biblical paintings and drawings, from a portrayal of Noah’s Ark to series of artworks detailing Jesus’s crucifixion.

Noah’s Ark on the Mount Ararat by Simon de Myle (1570).
These panels portraying Jesus’s crucifixion were hung above around the room. They’re very similar to the lamps inside Mission Santa Clara’s chapel.

I loved seeing all the artworks showing the people and events leading up to Jesus’s resurrection. But as a historian, I personally was disappointed to find that some of them were just replicas, not the original/historical works. For instance, Noah’s Ark on Mount Ararat is a copy of the original oil painting that was acquired by Sotheby’s from the Neger Gallery. And some were obviously recent works created by modern artists, like this artwork:

Artwork showing Moses and the Burning Bush.

Nonetheless, the information displayed in the room was organized well and great to view:

I especially enjoyed seeing actually historical artifacts, like this cupboard:

The small notice behind the display glass says that the “Historic Cupboard” was “built directly into the wall.” It also says that the room with this built-in cupboard (Room #2 of the Museum) was likely a dining room used by the Franciscan missionaries.

Room #3: “The Franciscan Journey”

The next room titled “The Franciscan Journey” was designed like a Franciscan missionary’s room. Showing an open Bible on a wooden desk, narrow bed, crucifix, and a Franciscan habit (clothing), this room gave a glimpse of what the lives of Franciscan friars looked like:

There were these QR codes you could scan to learn about the objects on display and about the Franciscan missionaries who risked their lives journeying across the globe to share their Christian faith.

Along with portraits of important Franciscan missionaries like Junípero Serra and Fermín Francisco de Lasuén and an entire section on Father Narciso Durán, there was a crucifix called, “The San Damiano Cross” hanging on the wall.

The San Damiano Cross.

Per the accompanying description, the San Damiano Cross was the cross before which St. Francis of Assisi (founder of the Franciscan order) had prayed to. It was said that in 1206, St. Francis received a vision from Jesus, who instructed him to rebuild the Church. I thought that this crucifix, unlike some of the paintings in the museum, was the actual historical artifact. But I found out afterwards while doing research that it’s not!

The actual crucifix is in the Basilica of Saint Clare in Assisi, Italy today. Besides this confusingly authentic-looking replica at the Mission San José Museum, another replica also hangs inside the church of San Damiano, the site where St. Francis received his commission from God.

The California Missions Room

The fourth room, titled “21 California Missions,” was an entire space dedicated to the 21 California missions. The walls were decorated with illustrations and info on each of the 21 missions:

Plus, there was this neat miniature model of Mission San José:

The note reads: “Presented to the Mission San Jose Museum July 31, 1988,” “Built & Donated By Twelfth Nighters Miniature Club of San Jose, CA.”
I mean, just look at the details! 👀

As I’ll share down below, the above miniature is a very good model of the actual Mission Church.☝️

From the “21 California Missions” room, you can either go to Room 5 or Room 9. I recommend following the order of the rooms and heading to Room 5, as you’ll be heading towards the exit from Room 9.

The Native American Room

The fifth room, titled “The Ohlone Indians: The Indian Way,” was packed with artifacts, drawings, and information all about the Native Americans who lived in the area before the Spanish arrived. I mean, it was literally an explosive display of artifacts! (I hope they were all or at least mostly actually historical.) There was just so much to view that I began to realize why there was an entire building serving as the Mission Museum. And as a history lover, I thought that this room alone made the $15 admission fee worth it!

This diorama in the middle of the room showing the Ohlone Indians living their lives was a nice touch to the exhibit:

I think I even spotted some of the artifacts on display being used by the figures inside the diorama!

Aside from the ancient baby carriers, another interesting artifact were these sticks used in games:

Marked sticks used in games.

Very similar artifacts were shown inside the one-room museum at Mission Dolores (click HERE to view the blog post). And sure enough, the accompanying note explains that these stick games were played by many different tribes in the Bay Area, including those at Mission Dolores:

This drawing shows Ohlone Indians at Mission Dolores playing the stick game. Reprint of Louis Choris’s illustration, shown inside the Mission Museum.

I will touch upon this topic more (hopefully in the near future), but I must briefly mention how strikingly similar these stick games look to traditional Korean game sticks called, “yuts.” Maybe all historical games look similar, but I find it fascinating that both Korean yuts and Ohlone sticks have cross markings on them and each stick has both “up” and “down” sides.

Anyways, “The Ohlone Indians: The Indian Way” room was a stellar display of Native American artifacts, with maps, illustrations and explanatory notes everywhere. In fact, it was one of my favorite rooms at the museum!

There was also a section dedicated to activist Dolores Marine Galvan. Descendant of the Ohlone of Mission San José, she worked with Rupert Costo of American Indian Historical Society (AIHS) to protect the Ohlone Indian Cemetery. They successfully prevented the Department of Transportation from constructing a freeway through the historic cemetery.
Photo of Chief Tarino at Alisal Rancheria, 1887. Chief Tarino was the leader of Chochenyo Ohlone who lived during the Mission’s early and later years. When the Mission was secularized, he formed a village called “Alisal” to foster Ohlone culture. He passed away when he was 120!
Cool genealogy chart of direct descendants of a Bay Miwok man and Ohlone woman. I read that hundreds of people in the Bay Area today are descendants of Miwoks and East Bay Ohlones.

St. Joseph Room & Chapel of Healing

After “The Ohlone Indians” room, you get to Rooms 6 and 7. They are more religious than historical, catering to Catholics and their respect towards St. Joseph. The sixth room, titled “The Life and Miracles of St. Joseph,” details the life of St. Joseph with paintings and objects while the seventh room is an actual chapel inside the Museum:

Entrance to St. Joseph Chapel of Healing.

During the Gold Rush, this chapel was used as a store until it was remodeled into a chapel in 1950 under the leadership of Reverend John A. Leal. Under the leadership of Pastor Anthony Huong Le, the chapel was renovated and renamed “St. Joseph Chapel of Healing.” I read that this space has been deemed sacred, formally blessed in 2024, and visited by Catholic pilgrims.

Inside St. Joseph Chapel of Healing. August 2025.

Just like the other Catholic chapels I’ve visited, there were these panel artworks on the side walls, showing the final moments of Jesus’s ministry on earth:

14 panels on the walls of St. Joseph Chapel of Healing. They portray scenes from Jesus’s crucifixion before His resurrection.

After viewing the decorative sanctuary and wall art, I exited the chapel, totally unaware that there was another room inside the chapel! Called “Sacristy and Sacred Vestments,” Room #8 is accessible only once a month during the Chapel’s monthly Mass. You can view sacred vestments and historic items stored in the sacristy every month on the 19th (except Sundays) at 8 AM during the Mass.

So if you’re interested in viewing these sacred and historic objects, you’ll need to schedule your visit not by the Mission and Museum hours but by the monthly Mass time.

Last Rooms (Room #9, #10 & #11)

The remaining rooms of the Mission Museum are titled the following: “The History and People of Mission San José,” “The Making of the Mission San José Church,” and “Mission San José of Today.” They showcase drawings, artifacts, and information about Mission San José during its Rancho Years, the original 1809 construction as well as the destruction and subsequent reconstruction in 1985, and its active role in Fremont today.

The Rancho Period

Among the Rancho Era artifacts, there was the St. Joseph branding iron that marked objects and livestock of the Mission with its logo, “J.”

Check out this wooden livestock branded with the “J”:

Branded wooden horse (left bottom) displayed along other Rancho Period items.

Gothic Church & Construction of Replica

After a major earthquake in 1868 destroyed the original 1809 adobe church of Mission San José, a wooden church was built in Gothic style and used until the adobe church could be rebuilt.

Photos of the old Gothic church displayed in “The Making of the Mission San José Church” room. It’s fascinating how different the Mission San José Church looked for almost a century!
Old pew and “pew rent” name cards from August 1982, before the Gothic church’s move to San Mateo, CA.

When the authentic replica was completed in 1985, the Gothic church was moved to San Mateo after being used for 96 years. Per the St. Joseph Catholic Church website, the replica is “one of the most authentically reconstructed of the California missions,” made with as much of the original materials and building methods as possible.

More artworks, artifacts, and photos from “The Making of the Mission San José Church.”
Original adobe brick, roof tiles, and other remnants of the destroyed church displayed.
Remnant of hand-painted and stenciled wallpaper from old Mission Church. Produced in France, c. 1810-1830.

Vietnamese Americans’ Contributions

Photos of Mission San José Church being reconstructed.

One thing that stood out as I walked through the final rooms of the Museum was the role Vietnamese Americans played in Mission San José’s modern history. Along with Pastor Michael Norkett and art conservator Sir Richard Menn, Vietnamese American Huu Van Nguyen participated in the rebuilding of Mission San José. Vietnamese Americans are also among the many who have donated to and volunteered at Mission San José:

Wooden plaque honoring the donors and volunteers of Mission San José.

And lastly but not least, the current priest at Mission San José is the Vietnamese American pastor, Fr. Thi Van Hoang.

Video showing Pastor Thi Van Hoang speaking. Inside the “Mission San José of Today” room.

Visiting the Mission San José Church

Front view of Mission San José.

There was so much to see, read, and take in inside the multi-room museum that I was literally worn out by the time I came back out to the Pilgrim Center. But the real deal, the adobe Mission San José church, remained yet to be explored. After spending hours in the Mission Museum, I finally made my way through the Pilgrim/Visitor Center to the Mission Church.

*You can only access Mission San José from its side entrance, which can be accessed through the Pilgrim/Visitor Center.

Per California Missions and Presidios: The History & Beauty of the Spanish Missions by Randy Leffingwell, the above buttress wall sections are all that remains of the old convento, or priests’ living quarters (146). And apparently, the Gift Shop and Museum used to be all connected to the Mission Church!

Inside the Old Mission

This is the side door and the only entrance to the old Mission Church:

*No flash devices are allowed inside the Church.

Behind the heavy wooden door lies this beautiful scene inside:

On the left, behind the front entrance door were these relic-like items. There were no accompanying captions or descriptions, but I think they were/are used for religious purposes:

I saw more items stored above the front entrance, but it was inaccessible to the public:

According to the St. Joseph Catholic Church website, the box-like structure on the right is a Spanish-style organ called, “Rosales Opus 14 Organ.” It was ordered back in 1819 and finally arrived at the Mission in 1989 (after 171 years!)

Down the Aisle (Feat. Religious Artworks)

As I made my way down the chapel under brightly-lit chandeliers, there was something to marvel at wherever I turned:

Lovely cystal chandeliers against a wooden, white-washed ceiling.

I mean, just look at the intricate details of the hand-painted wall art! 👀

There were other paintings hung down the chapel, too. I think the top middle painting depicts Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus and maybe, the rest depict Franciscan missionaries and saints:

But I’m not positive as there were no accompanying captions or explanatory notes.

There were also these sculptures of Christ, St. Joseph and a Franciscan missionary (I’m guessing Junípero Serra):

…and this statue of Christ on one of the side altars (called “Ecce Homo”), which I read is the original from the 1809 adobe church!

Ecce Homo, side altar near the front entrance door.

 Sanctuary

But of course, the highlight of the chapel was the sanctuary.

The altar consisted of a gilded reredo featuring a statue of St. Joseph and Christ on the cross in the middle, accompanied by candles and angels (both with and without bodies). Above was a painting of Jesus, under sculptures of a dove (representing the Holy Spirit) and God the Father.

Sculptures of God the Father and God the Spirit (dove) above God the Son, Jesus. Flanking the middle are paintings of Christ on the cross and the Holy Family of Joseph, Mary, and Jesus, also below the Holy Spirit and God the Father. For more photos of the sanctuary, visit the official Mission website HERE.

Historic Sight to Behold

Stepping inside the old Mission Church was such an experience! I so appreciated the fact that the replica church was rebuilt to be as historically accurate as possible, carefully following the Mission’s inventories from the 1830s and 40s and using as much of the original materials and methods as possible. Kudos to the conservator and restoration craftsman Sir Richard Menn and his assistant Huu Van Nguyen! 👏👏👏

The interior of Mission San José was definitely unique from the other mission chapels, with its green, crimson, and yellow palettes, gilded accents, flashy mirrors and crystal chandeliers. It was such a sight to behold; I can’t imagine how stunning it would have been for those living in the 1800s!

Mission Patio Garden/Cemetery

In between the Mission Church and Pilgrim Center/Museum is the Mission Patio Garden. It’s a quick walk from the Mission Church or the Museum; you just have to follow the sign:

The Mission Patio Garden was a small area featuring a running fountain, benches with dedications and a statue of Junípero Serra.

Per a plaque on the ground, the fountain, patio, and garden are “dedicated to the glory of God,” and commemorates the contributions of the “Abel, Donovan, Morgan, and Jelley families.” It was also a historic cemetery where early settlers, World War II heroes, and other individuals were interred. Many others are buried below the Mission church, including many Spaniards and Robert Livermore, whose grave is marked inside the renovated chapel:

Marble grave marker of Robert Livermore. Born in England, he became a prominent Californian ranchero. The city of Livermore is named after him.

More Cemeteries

Even more are buried in the Mission Cemetery, which is the larger cemetery on the other side of Mission San José. It was gated, so I think it’s off limits to the public like the cemetery at Mission Santa Clara.

And there’s also a separate cemetery located about a mile from the Mission where thousands of Ohlones are interred. It’s the historic cemetery that activist Dolores Marine Galvan and Rupert Costo of American Indian Historical Society (AIHS) protected from the construction of a freeway.

It took me about 20 minutes to walk down Washington Blvd. from the Mission Museum to reach the Ohlone Indian Cemetery:

According to online sources, there’s a grave mark that commemorates 4,000 Ohlone Indians buried at the site. I couldn’t see the plaque from the outside, but I did get to see wooden signages (pictured above). There’s also a shopping center right across the street called “Ohlone Village,” which I think is named in their honor:

Final Thoughts

Mission San José, August 2025.

Visiting Mission San José in Fremont was such a treat! Not only did it have an entire building dedicated to its history, a ton of artifacts, a gift shop, and restrooms, but it also had such unique charm. From its iconic white block of a chapel to its beautifully reconstructed interior, Mission San José was a delight to explore.

One thing that I personally found distracting as a history lover was the presence of nonhistorical artifacts and paintings. They made it confusing to know which artifacts were or weren’t historical. I think it’d be helpful if the Museum only displayed real artifacts or if the replicas were clearly marked as “replicas.” This might not be of importance to others, but I found it a shame for replicas to muddy the actual artifacts on display. Because historical artifacts have utmost value and meaning if they are the actual objects used by those in the past!

What I did love were the QR codes and dioramas that enhanced my self-guided tour as well as these arrows that helped me navigate through the museum. Also, “Acknowledgments” posted alongside informational on-pagers were great as they listed out the sources behind the artifacts and information displayed:

Mission San Jose Today

Once where cultures collided, the parish of St. Joseph Catholic Church, Mission San José of the Diocese of Oakland is a historic site of faith and sacrifice, of musicians as well as local legends like Estanislao. Rebuilt and preserved by the talents and contributions of many, its story continues as a place where all gather and unite under Christ.


P.S. Today, five flags fly outside the Pilgrim Center/Mission Museum. They represent the entities that owned/ruled over Mission San José throughout its 228 history:

  • Spain (representing Spanish Empire)
  • Vatican City (representing the Catholic Church)
  • Mexico
  • California
  • and the U.S.
View from the Pilgrim Center/Museum, looking down towards the Bay.

P.P.S. After the 1868 earthquake, three of Mission Church’s original bells were transferred to the Gothic-style church while the fourth bell was given to a church in Oakland and recast. Today, the Mission Church houses all four of its bells, and they ring on special occasions. 🔔

These bells were cast in Mexico and hung in the original 1809 adobe church. Closeup photos of the bells can be viewed on the official Mission website.

P.P.P.S. And here are aesthetic photos of Mission San José to wrap up the post!


Footnotes

  1. “El Camino Real,” which means “The Royal Road” in Spanish, is the 600-mile path connecting California’s 21 Spanish missions. ↩︎
  2. “Neophyte” is a term for baptized Christian Native Americans. ↩︎
  3. “Californios” is a term for the Spanish-speaking Catholics who lived in California when the region was under Spain and Mexico (from 17th to 19th centuries). ↩︎
  4. These restricted visits were called “paseos.” ↩︎

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California Missions Passport & Stamps

I did touch upon the topic of California Missions Passport in my post on Mission Santa Clara. But I decided to dedicate an entire post, as it turns out to be much more significant than I previously thought, especially for history lovers!

California Missions map by R.M.K., INC. I got it as a souvenir at the Mission Dolores gift shop.

There are 21 Spanish missions built along the California coast, and some history buffs go on pilgrimages to visit all of them. But I had no idea until recently that there’s actually a thing called, “California Missions Passport,” with which you collect stamps at each of the missions you visit. Once you collect all 21 stamps, you can apply for and receive a “Certificate of Completion.” (There’s also a “Certificate of Progress,” awarded to those who collect 6 stamps from any of the passport’s four sections, and a “Certificate of Support” for, I think, those who donate to the California Missions Trail.)

Where to Get the Missions Passport

While you can get stamps at all missions, you can’t for passports. Some missions, like Mission Santa Clara, don’t even have souvenir/gift shops! According to the California Mission Store, passports are available only at the following 10 sites:

  1. Mission San Diego
  2. Mission San Luis Rey
  3. Mission San Gabriel
  4. Mission San Fernando
  5. Mission San Buenaventura
  6. Mission San Miguel
  7. Mission San Antonio
  8. Mission San Juan Bautista
  9. Mission San Carlos
  10. Mission San Francisco (aka Mission Dolores)
  11. Mission San José *It wasn’t included in the list, but I saw passports being sold at the Mission San José gift shop when I visited!

So I recommend purchasing a passport when you’re visiting one of the above missions before visiting the other 10. (I had to go back to Mission Dolores to get my passport after I found out that Mission Santa Clara didn’t have them.)

With my newly acquired California Missions Passport at Mission Dolores! August 2025.

The passport cost $5.95, $6.46 tax included. I think it’s definitely worth it if you’re planning on visiting as many or all missions.

Update 8/30/2025: Another thing to note is that Missions Passports have different covers, depending on where you get them. The passport that I got in SF features Mission Dolores, but the passports sold at Mission San José look like this:

How to Apply for Certificates

Once you reach the milestone of visiting 6 or all 21 missions, you can receive your digital certificate. *While collecting stamps qualifies a person for the certificates, they appear to be more for completing the trek/cycle down or up the Missions Trail.

To receive the digital certificates, you need to notify the Lowman Publishing Company with a copy of your stamped passport for verification. It says on their website that they will then send over the digital certificate, which can be shared online and/or printed.

For more specifics and sample digital certificates, visit the California Missions Trail HERE.

My Progress

So, after revisiting Mission San Francisco de Asís for my passport, I’ve officially embarked on my stamp collecting journey! I’ll be tracking my progress here:

Mission San Francisco de Asís (aka Mission Dolores)

Mission Santa Clara de Asís

Mission San José

…More coming soon!

Photo by Christopher Stark.

P.S. Per the California Mission Store blog, the Missions Passports were created when two missions requested Bob and his team at Lowman Publishing Company to make them. I wonder which ones?

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Mission Santa Clara de Asís: Historic Church On Campus🏫

Continuing on with my long overdue trips to California’s 21 missions, I arrived at the next mission on my list: Mission Santa Clara de Asís. As its name indicates, I thought that it was located somewhere in the city of Santa Clara. But I didn’t expect it to be sitting right at the heart of Santa Clara University!

Mission Santa Clara at Santa Clara University, 2025.

Santa Clara University

Founded in 1851 (during the Gold Rush!), Santa Clara University is a private Jesuit Catholic university. According to the official SCU website, this 174-year-old school is California’s “oldest operating institution of higher learning.” But while SCU was the first to open its doors, the University of the Pacific (also founded in 1851 as “California Wesleyan College”) was the first to receive a state charter. Regardless of technicalities, both Santa Clara University and the University of the Pacific are the oldest universities in California. (Which I had always assumed was UC Berkeley!)

But before this historic campus, of course, was the even more historic Mission Santa Clara. The university was built around the Mission, which explains why it’s located literally right in the middle of the campus, surrounded by students going to and from their classes.

Campus map of Santa Clara University.
⭐Mission Santa Clara is right at the ❤️of SCU.

👉Fun Facts about Santa Clara University

#1: The university was originally an all-boys preparatory school called, “Santa Clara College.” It became “The University of Santa Clara” in 1912 and the first Catholic, coed university in California in 1961 when female undergraduates were admitted.

#2: The founder and first president of SCU was John Nobili, S.J.

Plaque commemorating John Nobili S.J. found inside the Mission church.

Born “Giovanni Pietro Antonio Nobili” in Rome, he became a Jesuit priest and missionary who was assigned to the Oregon Territory. When he came to California, he visited San Francisco and San Jose, and he was appointed as a pastor at Mission Santa Clara. The preparatory school he founded in 1851 became the Santa Clara College and eventually, the Santa Clara University we know today. There’s a street (Nobili Avenue) and residence hall (Nobili Residence Hall) named after him.

The Nobili Hall at SCU. It’s right behind the Mission church.

#3: SCU’s mascot is a bronco, which I found out from Oxford Languages is a wild/half-tamed horse of the western U.S. And specifically, their mascot is called, “Bucky the Bronco.” Though I couldn’t meet Bucky the Bronco during my visit, I did find this bronze statue of what appears to be a bronco:

Update 8/27/2025: I got to see cute versions of Bucky the Bronco at the SCU student store!

Aren’t these the cutest horse plushies?

Lovely Campus

Not only does SCU boast of long history, but it also is such a pretty campus, with brightly colored roses and lush lavender growing here and there. The overall aesthetics of the campus give the impression that it’s being maintained with utmost care.

Mission Santa Clara de Asís: The Beginnings

Mission Santa Clara was the 8th California mission established by Junipero Serra, coming after Mission San Francisco de Asís aka Mission Dolores (HERE is my post on the 6th CA mission) and Mission San Juan Capistrano. Founded in 1777, the settlement outpost was first named “La Misión Santa Clara de Thamien,” at a Native American village of Socoisuka located on the Guadalupe River. There, the Franciscans shared Christianity to the Ohlone people.

Oil painting of the early days of Mission Santa Clara, by Andrew Putnam Hill (1849). It shows the Mission during the 1830s at its fifth site where it stands today.

Multiple Reconstructions & Relocations

Per various sources, natural disasters such as flood, earthquake, and fire led to several relocations of the mission; it was rebuilt 6 times and relocated 5 times since 1777!

At one of the entrances to the university, you can find this cross and plaques next to it. They mark where the third site of the Santa Clara Mission (1784-1818) was after its flooding. After an earthquake and a temporary church at the fourth site, the Mission was rebuilt at its current location (at the heart of SCU) and has been there since 1825.
There’s also a signage at the third Mission site showing how the site would have looked back when it was active. *The yellow arrow is where the entrance cross is.
Another signage on campus showing where the five different sites of Mission Santa Clara were. The first and second sites were next to where San Jose Airport is today!

In addition to multiple reconstructions, the Mission and its inhabitants have been through much over the decades: initial success as a Spanish Catholic mission, cultural conflicts, epidemics, and changes in ownership, like most California missions. It was established and owned by the Spanish Franciscans until Mexico’s secession from the Spanish Empire, during which the ownership went to the Ohlone people and fell into decay due to insufficient funds. Then under the ownership of Jesuit priests, including John Nobili, the Mission became Jesuit and the heart of SCU ever since.

Plaque outside the Mission marking it as a historical landmark.

Visiting Mission Santa Clara de Asís

One of the first things you will inevitably notice when you arrive at the Mission is the big cross in front of the church building. The cross at one of the entrances to the campus was a marker for the Mission’s third site. This cross contains “a portion of the original cross first erected by Fray Tomas de la Peña, O.F.M. before the entrance to the first Mission Santa Clara de Asis” at its base:

Remnants of (what is reported as) the original cross of Mission Santa Clara! (You can’t really see it in this photo due to the reflection of the glass. I highly recommend viewing it yourself in-person!

Behind the wooden cross is the beautifully carved facade of the chapel with sculptures of three different individuals on it:

They are St. John the Baptist (left), St. Clare (middle) who the Mission is named after, and St. Francis (right):

According to this very informative signage nearby the Mission, the facade has changed multiple times since 1825. It’s fascinating to see the various facades of the Mission throughout its history:

✝️More Crosses & Roses🌹

There are also these small white crosses placed out in front of the Mission. I didn’t know what they were until after stopping by the Visitor’s Corner inside, but they are crosses memorializing the “Martyrs of El Salvador” who were murdered “by government forces at the Jesuit University of Central America in El Salvador” in 1989. The eight crosses bear the name of each of the martyrs.

Eight crosses memorializing the “Martyrs of El Salvador” stand outside the mission steps.

Around the church building are more beautiful roses:

Left and right, there were just bushes after bushes of vibrant roses:

There’s a rose garden within the walls of the Old Cemetery, too.

Under the spotless, azure sky, the scene above- roses in sunlight at the historic Mission- was ethereally beautiful!

The gates were locked, and sure enough, it says online that the cemetery is closed to the public as a “memorialized area for those still buried” (SCU.edu).

Rose Garden and Cemetery beyond the gates. According to the self-guided tour pamphlet, the walls of the Garden/Cemetery “outline the gravesites of thousands of Ohlone, Californios, and Anglos buried here from 1822 to 1851” but the graves actually go beyond the walls – which I’ll share more below!

Outer Garden & Sacred Heart Statue

There’s another garden on the other side of the chapel.

Map on the “Mission Santa Clara Self-Guided Tour” pamphlet.

On the left-hand side of the chapel, is the “Mission Gardens” area that’s open to the public. It’s a lovely area where a statue of Jesus stands, surrounded by ever-beautiful roses. It’s called the “Sacred Heart Statue” on the map (I found out later that it was built to cover the old Mission water well!)

“Sacred Heart of Jesus” statue. Erected in 1884.
I think someone in charge of the campus grounds sometimes puts roses in Jesus’s hand. They’re not always there, but there was a rose in His hand when I visited the first time,🌹
At the foot of the statue, there are two inscriptions: on the front it says “Venite Ad Me (Come to Me) Matt. XI. 28.” and on the back “Discite A Me (Learn from Me) Matt. XI. 29.” They’re what Jesus told his disciples as recorded in the Gospel of Matthew.

Wisteria Arbor & More

Next to the Sacred Heart Statue is the Wisteria Arbor, which I read are over 160 years old! I visited during the summer so I couldn’t see any wisteria in bloom; but they say if you visit during the spring, you’ll get to enjoy the beauty & fragrance of this historic wisteria.

When you walk down the Wisteria Arbor, you’ll get to where the “Former Padres Dormitory” used to be (somewhere on the left-hand side in the photo below):

I didn’t really understand until I saw this illustration online showing what the old Mission would have looked like in its original form:

Screenshot of diagram showing the original Mission Quadrangle. Online resource shared by SCU HERE.

So the Mission today is missing some parts of the Quadrangle and the Padres Dormitory.

But the original Adobe Wall and Lodge from 1822 (the left and top sides of the Quadrangle) remain standing today.

The Adobe Wall & Lodge & Beyond

Having survived the 1926 fire that destroyed all the other parts of the 1822 Misssion, the Adobe Wall and Lodge are the oldest structures on campus and look as such. Wait, they’re also the “oldest structures on any college campus in the West” (Mission Map)!

You can even see the individual adobe bricks inside the wall:

Further beyond are where there used to be an ancient olive orchard that provided olives and oil.

Grounds beyond the Adobe Wall. Apparently, there used to be 40 olive trees at one point!

And there were remnants of these Mills/Grinding Stones, which I read were used to process olive oil, grains, and corn:

You can also find another rose garden (where one of the mills/grinding stones is), an area of Ethiopian/Abyssinian Roses, a granite obelisk, and an observatory:

Rose Garden with Grinding Stone at its center.
Ricard Observatory and an obelisk commemorating the launching site of Professor John J. Montgomery’s controlled flight in 1905.

The areas next to the Ricard Observatory were also where a fruit orchard and vineyard had once existed.

Inside Mission Santa Clara de Asís

One of the entrance doors at the Mission.

To be honest, I didn’t know how to get inside the Mission. Mission Dolores had a signage directing people where to enter, but Mission Santa Clara didn’t. As I didn’t want to barge in on a service inside a historic property and an active campus church, I spent some time lingering outside totally unsure how to get in. But luckily, I ran into a student worker at SCU who let me inside the chapel after making sure that the church was open and no event (i.e. mass services, weddings, funerals, baptisms) was taking place within.

I entered through the main entrance door and immediately faced the decorative interior of the chapel and sanctuary at the back:

What you see when you enter inside.
The Vestibule is where you stand once you enter. On the left from the entrance are the stairs to the Bell Tower (off limits to visitors) and on the right is the Visitor’s Corner where you can pick up a “Self-Guided Tour” pamphlet.

I think I was first surprised by how colorful the ceiling was in its pink and sky-blue hues. And how long the chapel was, with intricate chandeliers (total of 3) and individual wooden chairs instead of pews. It was definitely unique and different from Mission Dolores.

Closeup of one of the intricate chandeliers inside the chapel. I thought the floating heads of angels were a little grotesque, though.

Above the Vestibule was an organ donated by a generous couple:

The Mission Organ, ” A Gift from Mr. & Mrs. Foster G. McGaw.”

…and down the chapel were lamps with images depicting the final days of Jesus’s ministry, before His resurrection:

Here’s a closeup of one of the lamps, lighted, too:

Side Chapels

I was amazed by the details on all the paintings, sculptures, and wall decorations as I made my way down to the sanctuary:

This side chapel, labeled as “Holy Family” on the map, used to be a baptistery and houses a painting of Jesus (God the Son) with Mary and Joseph, under God the Father and God the Holy Spirit (dove). By Riva Giuseppe Bergamo (1889).
“Catala Crucifix,” carved in Mexico. This crucifix arrived at the Mission in 1802.

The above “Catala Crucifix” is inside one of the 7 side chapels. It’s called “Catala Crucifix,” because Father Magín Catalá used to pray before it. Magín Catalá was a Spanish missionary born on January 30, 1761 at Montblanc in the Diocese of Tarragona, Spain. He joined the Franciscan Monastery in Barcelona when he was just 16 years old and was ordained a priest in 1785. From Cádiz, Spain, he traveled to Mexico in 1786 to work for the missionary college of San Fernando. After about 8 years, he arrived in California and spent the following 36 years working at Mission Santa Clara (from 1794-1830).

Plaque commemorating “Padre Magín Catalá, O.F.M.” Referred to as “The Holy Man of Santa Clara,” Catalá was revered and loved by those around him, including the Native American converts.

*There’s also a plaque on the outside of the chapel marking Magín Catalá’s cell where he passed away:

The Sanctuary

After taking in all the artworks and information displayed in each side chapel, I finally reached the sanctuary, which is made up of the main altar and pulpit. Though it wasn’t the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo, the sanctuary’s ceiling, nonetheless, was stunning to view!

The sanctuary. According to the official pamphlet, the High Altar ceiling and reredos aren’t the originals but are replicas of the 1825 church.
Against the fresco ceiling painted in azure blue, the golden stars seemed to glisten. *The “IHS” at the center are Greek for “Jesus.”

Visitor’s Corner & Bell Tower

Visitor’s Corner/Center inside Mission Santa Clara.

While I did see students giving tours to visitors, it says online that guided tours are not offered, with the exception of schools and class groups who can arrange tours through the de Saisset Museum located right next to the Mission. But for regular visitors like me, there are Self-Guided Tour pamphlets (which I’ve included and mentioned multiple times above) available at the Visitor’s Corner. It can also be downloaded online HERE.

Also at the Visitor’s Corner are informative tapestries and a tablet with more interesting facts about the Mission, along with plaques commemorating Santa Clara students and faculty veterans.

The steps to the Bell Tower are on the other side but are not open to the public.

Steps to the off-limits Bell Tower.

Per Wikipedia, the original bells were donated by King Charles III of Spain in 1777 and rang every evening per a promise made to the king.

Bells inside the Bell Tower.

Today, a recording of the bells are played instead of actually ringing the bells. I actually got to hear it when I visited on a Friday morning:

There are 3 bells, cast in 1798, 1799, and 1805, respectively. One of the three bells was donated by King Carlos IV but was destroyed in a fire, and King Alphonso XIII donated a replacement in 1929. The replacement (fourth) bell is on display at the de Saisset Museum.

Alas, the Museum was closed! 😞

I recommend NOT visiting Mission Santa Clara during the summer like I did… So that you can explore de Saisset Museum’s California Stories from Thámien to Santa Clara Exhibit showcasing Mission era artifacts, including the fourth bell.

St. Francis Chapel (The OG Chapel)

After exploring inside the Mission, I walked around the garden/cemetery to get to the Mission Office, in hopes of finding a souvenir shop next to it. The door was shut, so I tried knocking.

The Mission Office.

To my pleasant surprise, I got to meet the Director of Development of Mission Santa Clara de Asís, Andrew Chai! He let me inside the Office and showed me the St. Francis Chapel, which has the actual remains of the original Mission church, including its adobe wall, floor covering, and artifacts. I was so lucky to have visited during the Mission Office’s hours, which is the only time when you can view the historic chapel:

More Cool History

Not only did Andrew show me the insides of St. Francis Chapel, but he also shared with me a plethora of cool historical facts about the Mission I hadn’t known. He told me that…

🧱There used to be an old well at the Mission. But when it no longer was used, the statue of Jesus was built to cover the hole that had lost its purpose.

🧱The Mission church today was reconstructed with different materials (i.e. steel) and built in different dimensions (longer and larger to fit all the students at SCU) from the original structure. The original materials, paint, and shape of the Mission can be seen inside the St. Francis Chapel, which is much smaller than the reconstructed Mission.

Inside St. Francis Chapel, with the original adobe wall!
The original floor covering!

🧱And here’s something literally wild: these paw prints are from animals (maybe dogs?) who couldn’t resist stepping on the floor before they had dried completely. Thanks to them, we get to see their little footprints preserved for hundreds of years inside St. Francis Chapel!

Aren’t these the cutest? 🐾

🧱There used to be a small, redbrick student chapel adjacent to the Old Cemetery. But after the 1926 fire, only the entry porch remains today as steps leading to the Cemetery.

Where the old student chapel would have been. *I drew in a very rough sketch of a church building just to imagine how it would have looked like with the student chapel there. That’s probably NOT how it had looked like!
Steps to the old student chapel, which used to house the Holy Family painting now placed inside the Mission church.
I’m not sure if the above is the original floor of the old student chapel. Regardless, isn’t it neat?

🧱The Old Cemetery actually goes beyond its walls and into the grassy lawns next to the Mission. Unaware students and visitors might be sitting or walking right above cemetery grounds!

🧱As mentioned previously, other original structures onsite are the Adobe Wall and Lodge. I was told that the Lodge used to be a kitchen and still functions as one, albeit with stainless appliances.

….and so much more!

⛪ The Mission Office & Passport 📃

Everything Andrew shared with me made me appreciate the Mission so much more. If you want more than just a reading from pamphlet/guide/online resources, I highly recommend that you visit the Mission Office during their hours. (Thank you Andrew for making my visit to the Santa Clara Mission all the more memorable & fun! 😊)

The Mission church is open every day, from 7 AM to 7 PM, but the Mission Office is open from Monday to Friday, from *8 AM to 4 PM. (*While it says 8 AM online, it says 8:30 AM inside the Visitor’s Corner… Maybe the hours have been slightly adjusted recently?)

Notice about Mission passport stamps at the Visitor’s Corner.

Not only can you get a glimpse of St. Francis Chapel (and 🐾!) through the Mission Office, but you can also get a stamp if you have a “Missions passport.” According to California Missions Trail, this passport is a pocket-sized booklet/pamphlet for recording all the Missions you visit. Apparently, if you visit all 21 Missions and collect stamps for each, you can receive a Certificate of Completion. (They also give out “Certificate of Progress” for those who collect stamps for 6 Mission sites.)

While passports are “available at most of the Missions,” I couldn’t get mine at SCU! 🥲*Per the California Mission Store by Lowman Publishing, passports are available for purchase only at the following 10 missions: Mission San Diego, Mission San Luis Rey, Mission San Gabriel, Mission San Fernando, Mission San Buenaventura, Mission San Miguel, Mission San Antonio, Mission San Juan Bautista, Mission San Carlos in Carmel, and Mission Dolores in San Francisco.

Update 8/27/2025: I finally got mine and began my stamp collecting journey! HERE is an entire post on Missions Passport.

Speaking of Mission-related items, there isn’t a gift shop at Mission Santa Clara. But there are some Mission-related items at the campus store:

The SCU campus store, “Bronco Corner,” is within walking distance from the Mission.

But I learned that purchases made there don’t support the Mission. So if you want to support Mission Santa Clara, donations can be made HERE.

Outside St. Francis Chapel.

👉Fun Facts about Mission Santa Clara

#1: Mission Santa Clara once had the largest Indian population of any California mission.

Signage on campus about the Ohlone people who joined the Mission.

#2: It was the first CA mission named in honor of a woman, Saint Clare, who followed Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscan Order.

#3: The city, county, and university are all named after the Mission; the logo of the university is the Mission church itself.

More souvenirs at the SCU campus store.

#4: It’s the only mission located on a university campus:

Mission Santa Clara Today

With its Jesuit origins focusing on education and its Franciscan nature of serving the poor and marginalized, the Mission continues to serve as the spiritual and historic heart of Santa Clara University. Soon reaching its 250th anniversary in 2027, Mission Santa Clara de Asís is a lovely chapel of California’s unique history. Its story of faith, sacrifice, and diversity are being well-preserved on the SCU campus adorned with historical signages and roses.


P.S. Some tips & advice: I highly recommend visiting Mission Santa Clara during the spring, when you can enjoy the Wisteria Arbor in full bloom and visit the de Saisset Museum. Plus, it can get quite hot during the summer in Santa Clara…Plus, if you plan on taking photos like I did, be aware that Santa Clara University is a private property and permits are required. Per the SCU webpage HERE, I applied for permission by contacting the Mission Office.

P.P.S. Not only does SCU abound with roses, signages, and history, but also the campus teems with squirrels. This fellow followed me for a little while during my self-guided tour:

P.P.P.S. Did you know that you can enter inside Mission Santa Clara from your home? Link to virtual tour👉https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=GtTkK1X7Zzf

P.P.P.P.S. Here are more photos of the aesthetic Santa Clara University and Mission Santa Clara!


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The Day I Caught Scooby-Doo

If you clicked on this blog post wondering about the title, it’s exactly as you read it: I literally caught Scooby-Doo one day.

It was at Westfield Valley Fair, inside Bowlero Valley Fair where there are bowling alleys and arcades.

At the Westfield Valley Fair shopping center, there’s Alamo Drafthouse Cinema (2nd floor) and Bowlero Valley Fair (1st floor) that offers bowling, arcade, sports bar & more.

I came across this claw machine where a life-size Scooby-Doo was poking out of a pile of plushies (which included a life-size Super Mario and other famed characters). As a veteran claw machine player, I had this feeling that I could somehow get Scooby-Doo.

After a few fails…

I did it!!!

If you want to catch a life-size plushie, I highly recommend Bowlero Valley Fair. If you’re not confident, then I suggest that you practice with these cheaper mini claw machines prevalent at shopping centers and at SF Japantown. (I think they’re called, “Kiddleton” machines.) Anyways, that’s how I won my Scooby-Doo!

Here are a few of my past claw machine prizes:

Good luck!


Update 8/28/2025: I’m most happy to share that I recently caught another giant plushie at Bowlero Valley Fair. This time, I caught Tom from Tom and Jerry!


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San Jose Japantown: A Hub of History (feat. Manju & More)

San Jose’s Japantown

When “Japantown” is mentioned, I think most people immediately think of the one in San Francisco. Well, at least that’s how Google seems to think according to search results. And honestly, that’s how I thought. But there’s actually another Japantown in the Bay Area, one in San Jose. Albeit smaller, it’s a town of Japanese American history, with its oldest store dating back to the 1920s. For those who aren’t familiar with San Jose Japantown, here’s a full review of the little hub of history, great sweets, and more!

San Jose Japantown, June 2025.

The Beginning

Photo of Taiyo Maru, one of the five ships that traveled from Japan to San Francisco in 1920, from the Japanese American Museum of San Jose.

Also known as “Nihonmachi” or “J Town,” San Jose Japantown sits just north of Downtown San Jose. It’s one of the last remaining historical Japantowns in the U.S. (the other two being SF’s Japantown and LA’s Little Tokyo). Its origins go back to the 1890s when the first-generation Japanese (“Issei”) single men immigrated to the Santa Clara Valley for farm and labor work. When these men first arrived, they found refuge in San Jose Chinatown (aka “Heinlenville”) that was already established nearby in 1887.

It was only years later in the early 1900s that the Nihonmachi was established, providing boarding houses, bathhouses and more for single migrant workers.

Map of old Chinatown and Japantown before 1939, displayed in the Japanese American Museum.

Arrival of Japanese Women

But after the Gentlemen’s Agreement of 1907 limited immigrant male workers from Japan but allowed family immigration of Japanese residents in the U.S., more Japanese women began to arrive. Many came as picture brides, and second-generation Japanese children (“Nisei”) were born, changing the landscape of the town to be more family-oriented.

From the Japanese American Museum in San Jose.

Chinatown & Pinoytown

While San Jose Japantown was growing, its neighbor Chinatown faced its demise. Due to the anti-Chinese immigration laws and the Great Depression of the 30s, Chinatown became bankrupt and was destroyed when the City of San Jose seized the land and razed it to the ground.

Heinlenville Park commemorates the San Jose Chinatown (aka “Heinlenville”) that once existed at its location.
Sheltering Wing (2021), sculpture by Roger W. Stoller.
There’s a timeline display explaining the history of San Jose’s Chinatowns and the role Mr. John Heinlen played in the formation of the last Chinatown (Heinlenville), along with commemorative plaques honoring San Jose’s Chinatowns that had existed.

As such, Japantown became the major Asian town center for the next wave of immigrants, the Filipinos, as San Jose Chinatown had once been for the first Japanese immigrants. And just as Japantown was formed near Chinatown, Pinoytown was formed near both ethnic towns.

Pinoytown mural in Japantown, by artists Jordan Gabriel and Analyn (Ana) Bones. Pinoytown thrived from the 1930s to the 1950s. Though it no longer exists, its history and memories are being shared by Filipino Americans and groups like the Filipino American National Historical Society of Santa Clara Valley.
The Filipino Community of Santa Clara County at Japantown.

From a Ghost Town to a Historical Site

But after the Imperial Japanese Navy’s infamous bombing of Pearl Harbor, all Japanese residents, including Japanese American citizens, were forced to leave their homes. About 120,000 Nikkei (people of Japanese descent) were evicted and sent to internment camps from 1942 to 1945. During this time, San Jose Japantown became a ghost town with most buildings empty.

After World War II, when everyone was allowed to return home to the West Coast, many had to begin their lives all over again after losing their lands, properties, and everything they had worked for. Through the resilience of the Japanese Americans, San Jose Japantown became, once again, the Asian town center it once was, where three generations of Japanese Americans preserved their culture and history. The town has seen ups and downs through the decades: thriving during the 50s and 60s, declining in the 70s with the passing of the Isseis, and once again seeing revivals led by the politically active third-generation Japanese Americans (“Sansei”).

San Jose Japantown Today

Today, San Jose Japantown stands strong with a history of over a hundred years. As mentioned in the beginning, it truly is a hub of history and is well-maintained so, with historical plaques and markers explaining its story through the decades since the late 1800s.

You can find these signages throughout Japantown that explain the town’s history during various decades.

And there are commemorative plaques and sculptures, like this rock sculpture erected in honor of the “Issei Pioneers”:

Plaque accompanying the rock sculpture above.

Not to mention this ingenious “historical landmarks of San Jose’s Japantown” QR project by a girl scout troop! When you scan the QR code on certain benches in J Town, you can learn more about the history behind each location.

For instance, when you scan the QR code on this bench in front of this home called the “Hori Building” with your phone, you can read more about what was once a midwifery and home of a Japanese midwife named Mito Hori.

Japanese American Museum of San Jose

But if you, like me, are not satisfied with historical signages and markers, then I highly recommend visiting the Japanese American Museum of San Jose (JAMsj).

Look at these koi fish going up the steps to the museum – brilliant!
And this beautiful artwork at the entrance!

It was such a well-maintained museum detailing the history of Japanese Americans:

Through historical photographs, artifacts, replicas, and more, you can see how they first arrived in the Bay and grew a community and town in their new homeland through hard work.

Display area showing how the first-generation Japanese Americans arrived in the Bay.
Photos and artifacts of the bachelor migrants who arrived as farmers and laborers in the Santa Clara Valley, aka the Valley of Heart’s Delight.

Hardships & Injustice

The museum also shows the devastating effects Imperial Japan’s attack on the United States during World War II had on these hardworking Japanese American residents and citizens and the ensuing injustice they faced when the U.S. government failed to see and treat them as citizens and forced them into internment camps.

“WWII Incarceration” display area showing details of 10 “War Relocation Authority (WRA)” camps plus the Crystal City Interment Camp.
Miniature display of an internment camp.

Resilience

What was inspiring was just how these Japanese American residents and citizens, despite the devastation, hardship, and injustice they faced, never gave up. They never stopped working hard for their survival, for their loved ones, and for their honor. Just looking at the paintings and artworks drawn by those trapped at the internment camps and seeing their woodwork (handmade with extremely limited resources) was truly moving:

Beautiful artworks created by Japanese Americans at internment camps.
Each artwork was unique and powerful.

Simulation Room

Another memorable part of the museum was the Barrack, a simulation of a WWII American Barrack room at an internment camp. It was constructed by Jimi Yamaichi, carpenter, construction foreman at the Tule Lake camp, and co-founder of the Japanese American Museum of San Jose who was sent to the Tule Lake Segregation Center with his family. He lived an incredible life of persistence, of working for the community around him, and of educating others about the injustice he witnessed and lived through firsthand.

Stepping inside the replica truly brought history to life and helped me to tangibly see what the Japanese American families experienced.

Replica of a typical Barrack Room, which, I learned, housed a family of six! Even though families put up curtains, I was told that there was no privacy…
Outside the Barrack Room. I’m not sure if the exterior had been reconstructed to be historically accurate, though; I couldn’t find any info on it.

Hard Work of Issei Farmers

There was also an outside garage-like area showing the history of the Issei farmers and their lives in the Santa Clara Valley. Here is a display of a typical pre-war and early post-war Japanese American farm house:

There were historical everyday items displayed, along with photos of Issei farmers:

There was even this mochi maker! As a Korean American, I recognized it right away as it looks similar to the traditional mortar and pestle set used to create tteok. (Tteok is Korean rice cakes dating back to at least 500 BCE.)

And there were actual farm tools and machines used at the time:

And this Model-T Ford, too:

I learned from this exhibit area that many of the items were from Mr. Eiichi Sakauye, co-founder of the museum. He was a successful Japanese American farmer and businessman of the Santa Clara Valley who even invented farming machines and techniques!

This exhibit of the Japanese American Farm Experience allowed me a glimpse into the hard work and determination of the pioneering Japanese Americans, including Mr. Eiichi Sakauye.

Regiment 442

I would love to watch this documentary one day!

Another section of the museum exhibit that was eye-opening was the part on Regiment 442. The 442nd Regimental Combat Team was formed in 1943 and made up of mostly Nisei, second-generation Japanese Americans from both Hawaii and the mainland U.S. Fighting for the United States in Europe during World War II, the 442nd Infantry Regiment was “the most decorated unit for its size and length of service during the entire history of the U.S. military” (U.S. Army).

Map of the 100th Infantry Battalion/442nd Regimental Combat Team’s Campaigns, Battles, and Contributions displayed inside the museum.

The Most Decorated Unit

As the official U.S. Army website explains, these Japanese American soldiers had to fight 2 battles – out in the warfront abroad and at home, where they weren’t treated or viewed as citizens. What’s incredible and heartbreaking at the same time is that these Japanese American soldiers fought while their families were detained at internment camps. Some Japanese Americans did refuse to get drafted and fight for a country that didn’t consider them citizens (understandably so!), but many chose to fight for the U.S., risking their lives to prove their allegiance to their country. I mean, the approximate 14,000 men fought so bravely that they “ultimately earn[ed] 9,486 Purple Hearts, 21 Medals of Honor and an unprecedented eight Presidential Unit Citations” (U.S. Army).

The Empire of Japan and its followers who were loyal to it until suicidal deaths were the ones responsible for the deaths of countless men, women, and children throughout Asia and for the deaths of American sailors, Marines, soldiers, and civilians at Pearl Harbor. It’s heartbreaking that the innocent, hardworking Japanese American citizens and residents were treated as enemies by the U.S. when they viewed their new home as their country. And all the more heartbreaking that the Japanese American men risked and sacrificed their lives to prove their innocence.

Artifacts of the 442nd Regiment soldiers, including helmets, flasks, boots and the New Testament.

Nichi Bei Bussan (Unofficial Japanese American Museum & Historic Store)

There’s also an unofficial Japanese American museum inside a store called Nichi Bei Bussan. Its translation being “Japanese-American Mercantile,” Nichi Bei Bussan’s history goes back to 1902 when Mr. Shojiro Tatsuno founded its first store in SF’s Chinatown.

The store was at Gough Street, at the intersection of Post and Buchanan Streets as a department store until Mr. Tatsuno and the other Japanese American residents and citizens were forced to leave for the internment camps. After Mr. Tatsuno and his family were able to return to their homes in California, his son Masateru took over the reopened family business in San Francisco (until it closed in 1997, after 95 years) while his other son David (a Cal alumnus!) opened a second store in San Jose in 1947.

Arlene told me that there’s a documentary about her father, Mr. David “Dave” Tatsuno, who filmed a documentary illegally with legally acquired tools on life at the Topaz War Relocation Center in Utah when he and his family were interned there.

I so luckily ended up inside the 78-year-old store in San Jose and got to speak with the store’s owner, Arlene, who is Mr. David Tatsuno’s daughter. So, in addition to exploring traditional kimonos, various Japanese items from origami to tea ware and books, I got to speak with someone who was part of J Town’s story and of Japanese American history.

Portrait of a Family: The Tatsunos

Arlene’s family history was so fascinating that I think I stayed at the store for over an hour just listening. Her grandfather was the second son of a merchant family in Nagano, Japan. Since family businesses went down to the first-born sons (like how it was elsewhere throughout Asia and the West at the time (i.e. law of primogeniture)), he emigrated to San Francisco in 1893, arriving at Angel Island all by himself at the age of 21.

Arlene also showed me this book, Behind Barbed Wire, by Paul Kitagaki. He tracked down Japanese Americans in photographs taken by Dorothea Lange, Ansel Adams and other photographers and took photos of them or their surviving family members decades after the old photos were taken. It took him 10 years to compile this book of photos and interviews. As described in the blurb, his photos reveal “the strength and perseverance of the subjects [and their families].”

Displayed at the unofficial history museum at Nichi Bei Bussan is Behind Barbed Wire. In the book, Arlene’s photo (taken when she was 70) is shown beside a photo of her father and grandfather when he was around 70. The photo of the Tatsunos (right before the forced relocation) taken by Dorothea Lange can be viewed HERE.

There were so many other stories Arlene shared with me about her grandfather, father, and brother that I cannot write them all here. If you are a Japanese American or someone who loves history, I highly recommend hearing them from Arlene yourself, especially about her brother Rod!

Rod Masatoshi Tatsuno carried the Olympic Torch on its way from Nagano, Japan to Salt Lake City during the 2002 Winter Olympics.

Sweets, Coffee, and More

San Jose Japantown has other places to visit aside from its official and unofficial history museums. Here are my top four spots:

1. Shuei-do Manju Shop

Manjus are traditional Japanese sweets. Its origins can be traced back to when Japanese Buddhist monks/envoys brought over the Chinese mantou or “steamed buns” during the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The mantou evolved to suit Japanese tastes and became the distinct, sweet manju as it’s known and enjoyed today.

Photo of the manju menu board.

Shuei-do Manju Shop has been making their manjus since 1953. They’re so good that they were specifically requested for Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko of Japan in 1994 when they visited the U.S.

From bottom left to right, clockwise: yomogi, kinako, brown inaka, and green tea manju.
White inkaka, habutai, white manju, and monaka.
Green tea manju, chi chi dango (raspberry flavor), kinako, pink white, peanut butter, and pink tsubu.

Everyone I know have approved of Shuei-do Manju’s high quality. ⚠️But here are a few things to be aware of:

  • They have irregular hours, only open from Thursdays to Sundays, from 10AM to 4PM.
  • The butter mochi is only available on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.
  • I think some items are seasonal, as they were always unavailable when I visited this summer (i.e. kuri and peanut).
  • If you want to try all the flavors or specific flavors, you need to come early (i.e. right when it opens) as items get sold out throughout the day. Here’s the menu board one day in the afternoon:

The price for a 6 piece manju box (any manjus of your choice) was $15. I think it’s a reasonable price for one of the best manju shops.

9/30/2025 Update: If you want to get a taste of Shuei-do Manju but can’t make it all the way to San Jose, fear not! You can get them in San Francisco, too. Kissako Tea in SF Japantown sells Shuei-do manjus during the weekends, so you can get them while you try Kissako Tea’s onigiris and treats.

2. Roy’s Station Coffee & Tea

This Japantown coffeeshop has everything: coffee, tea, food, and history. It’s a family-owned cafe that once was a Mobil gas station called, “Bill & Doug’s Gas Station” that opened in 1938. It was then taken over and operated by Mr. Roy Murotsune for 50 years as Roy’s gas station after he returned from the internment camps.

Photos of what the coffee shop looked like when it was a gas station, along with a photo and drawing of Mr. Roy Murotsune.

Mr. Murotsune, his wife Esther, and their families were part of San Jose’s Japantown since the early orchards days. In 2009, their children and grandchildren transformed the old station into Roy’s Station Coffee & Teas, which has been bringing the J Town community together every morning ever since.

Inside Roy’s Station.

I kid not when I say this coffee shop has everything: they have merchandise, good wifi, and this retro coke machine that actually works! I simply had to try it out and I did:

It says online that the coffee shop opens at 8 AM every day, but the doors were open with customers ordering when I got there at 7:50 AM. Roy’s Station seemed like a community favorite, even approved by this stray cat named Panda. (I was told that this stray cat always comes by to chill. And yes, I was told “Panda” was his name!)

Roy’s Station gets a stamp of approval from Panda, too! 🐼

3. tōno coffee project

A little off the heart of Japantown is a recently built apartment called, “Exhibit at Jtown.” And on its first floor is “tōno coffee project,” which I have designated as one of the best matcha spots in the South Bay!

I chanced upon this place one day when I was having serious match cravings and I happened to be around the area. I have not yet tried their coffee (which, considering their name, I really should), but I can say with total confidence that the matcha latte at tōno is really good. If you are a matcha connoisseur, you may have at times encountered and not liked matcha latte that’s all milk and barely any matcha. Well, at tōno coffee, you can savor the thick and rich matcha flavor as it flows down your throat oh-so-smoothly.

Iced matcha latte at tōno coffee project. 💚But the drink was small in size compared to the price ($7). But then, again, since it’s exquisitely good, I can see why.

tōno coffee project is open from Thursday to Sunday, from 9 AM to 5PM.

Within a short walking distance from tōno is this little resting area/park with cool wall arts.

Outdoor street art park next to Exhibit at Jtown. If I remember correctly, there was this plaque commemorating “The Chinese Methodist Episcopal Church,” which, I think I read, had disbanded.
There were other wall arts, but I loved this one by Kevin Lyons the most. Isn’t it cute and fun?

4. Santo Market

“Serving San Jose since 1946,” Santo Market is a family-operated grocery store. Interestingly, you can’t go inside the actual market; you need to order from outside and pick up the grocery items/food/beverage at the counter when it’s ready:

I tried their tuna shoyu poke salad ($14). Though I can’t really compare it to poke in Hawaii as I’ve yet to visit, the tuna shoyu poke salad was good, especially the seasoning of the tuna shoyu:

The store is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. But I highly recommend that you visit on a Tuesday or a Saturday when they have their scrumptious strawberry mochi!

The strawberry mochi (pack of 2) is an absolute delight: there’s juicy strawberry with sweet red bean paste inside a soft, chewy layer of pink mochi.

It’s so good that when I went the first time to Santo Market on a Tuesday morning around 10 AM, all the strawberry mochis had sold out! The cashier told me that people line up since 8 a.m. for the mochi and they sell out at around 9:15.

And sure enough, when I visited another Tuesday at 8:15 a.m., there was a line already. And by 9 AM (opening time), there was a long line:

Long line at Santo Market before the store even opened…

One pack of “Fresh Strawberry Mochi” (consisting of 2 pieces) was $6. Despite waiting in line for about an hour before the store opened, a bite of it made it all worth it. 🍓

*Per their Instagram account, Santo Market seems to not have strawberry mochi on some Saturdays. Be sure to check their IG page before your visit!

Places To Buy Souvenirs

If you’re visiting J Town in San Jose and want to buy souvenirs (while supporting local businesses), I recommend the following spots:

1. Nichi Bei Bussan

The unofficial history museum/store mentioned earlier has a plethora of new and vintage consignment items full of Japanese culture and history.

Inside Nichi Bei Bussan.
I adored those little plates with fruit and flower drawings on them!

I ended up splurging on these vintage items:

Copies of Nagasaki Harbor Light: An English Language Monthly. They just seemed like such fascinating historical sources to read.
Vintage postcards of Kyoto, “Fine Views of Kyoto.”

2. Kogura Co

Kogura Company is another historical store owned by a Japanese American family, passed down multiple generations. It was established by Mr. Kohei Kogura in 1928, so it’ll be turning 100 in 2028! According to its official website, it has been in its current location in 1934, and so, is “the oldest business to occupy its original location in any Japantown in the United States.”

Books on San Jose Japantown’s history are sold at Kogura.
I really liked being in this little ceramics corner at the store.

Unlike Nichi Bei Bussan, I think none of the items at Kogura are consignment. And there were also more souvenir-like items on sale.

And this neat sushi-shark sculpture!

Shark wrapped in sushi:🦈roll.

Per this flyer explaining the history behind “Sushi Shark,” San Jose held a city-wide art event in 2001 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of San Jose Sharks. Illustrator and artist Doug Wright was selected to build a 3-D sculpture for J Town, and so he designed and built the above Sushi Shark. Sushi Shark has even appeared in Olympic Torch Runs! Apparently, it’s permanent home is now Kogura Co.

There were these postcards of Sushi Shark for sale at Kogura, so I couldn’t resist getting some.

Stickers, pins, and postcards at Kogura Co.
The illustrations on both postcards are by Tamiko Rast. Sushi Shark (2014) was created to honor her uncle, Dough Wright. Fun fact: Tamiko is Mr. Roy Murotsune’s granddaughter! Talk about generations of a family contributing to their community!

3. Empire Seven Studios

Next stop, we have Empire Seven Studios, an art gallery and gift shop next to Exhibit at Jtown and tōno coffee project. After getting your coffee/matcha latte from tōno, you can walk over to Empire Seven to view artworks by various artists and maybe even purchase their merch.

My personal favorites were these:

“Pet Store” by Kristina Micotti, an award-winning illustrator whose artworks are also sold at SFMOMA Museum Store.
Floral paintings by Lacey Bryant and Ceramic Frogs by Cynthia Gonzalez.
I don’t know who designed and made them, but these face sculptures were so unique and their titles hilarious!

I got this San Jose Japantown sticker from Empire Seven Studios:

4. Japanese American Museum of San Jose

Of course, the Japanese American Museum of San Jose also had a small gift shop.

Gift shop inside JAMsj.

I ended up purchasing these two Hokusai postcards, as they reminded me of the Japanese American immigrant farmers.

Besides the four places shared above, there are so many other spots to buy souvenirs from. Shuei-do Manju Shop and Roy’s Station Coffee & Tea each have their own merchandise for sale. Plus, there are stores that sell ukuleles! (I think there are these ukulele stores and several poke spots (like Santo Market) in J Town because of the deep ties between Japanese Americans and Hawaii, as the early immigrants who didn’t settle in California mostly settled in Hawaii.)

Conclusion

Compared to SF Japantown, San Jose Japantown has less shops, restaurants, and activity in general. But this community-based town is a great place to immerse oneself in Japanese American history while visiting historic stores and museums and getting high-quality Japanese sweets and more.

Resilient Like the Plum Blossom

The symbol of J Town in San Jose is a plum blossom. In Chinese, Korean, and Japanese cultures, plum blossoms symbolize resilience, perseverance, and hope, as they bloom in early spring after enduring the harsh conditions of winter.

🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸

Like the plum blossom, Japanese Americans of the past centuries endured the challenges of immigration and then great injustice when their mother country attacked their new country, the United States, and when the country they saw as their home viewed and treated them as aliens and enemies. Despite being forcibly removed and incarcerated in internment camps for three years, the Japanese American residents and citizens never stopped working hard: men fought for the U.S. during WWII to prove their loyalty and integrity and families persevered when they had to build their lives all over again.

San Jose Japantown is a testament to their pioneering courage, inspiring hard work, and moving resilience like the plum blossom.

Photo by Xinyi Wen.

P.S. I learned that while the Japanese immigrants (like other ethnic immigrants) faced discrimination when they arrived in the Bay, they were welcomed by some Americans. It says on the Japanese American Citizens League San Jose Chapter website that the Americans of the Methodist church were one of those who welcomed them, and that’s why some Japanese Americans became Methodists and founded the Wesley United Methodist Church in 1895.

The Wesley United Methodist Church founded by Issei Christians. The first church structure at this site was built in 1913.

P.P.S. There is this miniature replica of San Jose Japantown inside Nichi Bei Bussan. It doesn’t cover all of J Town but still is such a neat representation of the historic town.

Miniature replica of San Jose Japantown, 5th St and Jackson St, 2024. Inside Nichi Bei Bussan, July 2025.
Look at the mini Shuei-do Manju Shop (blue banner)…
…and there’s Roy’s Station Coffee & Tea!

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BART Appreciation Art – BARTolomew

A few months ago, there was a call for artworks on the Bay Area Rapid Transit system. The BART Art Program invited local artists to submit their artworks to be shared in various public spaces like train stations. Though I learned about this exciting opportunity too late, I still created an artwork to show my appreciation for the public transit system that I’ve frequented these past several years since coming to the Bay Area.

BART train, September 2025.

Voila! Ladies and gentlemen, I present you, BARTolomew:

BARTolomew, Digital Art by The Time Traveler, 2025.

P.S. Aside from the art event, BART hosts other fun events throughout the year. This September, special stickers were given out for the All Aboard Transit Day on Tuesday, September 23, 2025. But they weren’t handed out at every BART station, and I had to search hard to get one of these:

If you want to participate, I suggest following BART on social media for all the details & latest updates. Here’s the link to their Instagram Account: https://www.instagram.com/sfbayarearapidtransit/?hl=en


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Lick Mill & Mansion: Remnants of History Amongst Apartments

Mansion Grove Apartments

I traveled to Santa Clara, CA for the first time recently. And while down there, I visited an apartment complex called Mansion Grove. It’s located near the VTA Headquarters, Samsung, Cisco and other big companies.

The gated community features fountains, pools, a community garden, playground, tennis and basketball courts, and a fitness center. It even has a quaint cottage that residents can borrow for their families and friends. (With a fee, of course!)

Mansion Grove’s leasing office.
Little park and fountain by the leasing office.
Community garden and tennis court.
Fountain and the Cottage that residents can rent for their guests.

I was walking around this peaceful and rather large apartment complex when I spotted the following:

On the left is a circular brick building and on the right is a white wooden structure that looks like a mansion.

Even at a quick glance, these buildings didn’t seem like they belonged there. Though they sit right inside the gated community, something about them had too much of that historical charm. But the most I imagined was that they were old facility buildings from a previous apartment company. Never did I imagine that they were buildings of the richest man in California back in the 19th century!!!

The Lick Mill and Mansion.

James Lick: The Man

Portrait of James Lick
 (August 25, 1796 – October 1, 1876). Ca. 1870.
From the Library Company of Philadelphia.

When I finally got down to researching about the mysterious buildings, I was surprised to find that they were built and owned by a man named James Lick. According to Wikipedia, he was an “American real estate investor, carpenter, piano builder, land baron, and patron of the sciences.”

He was born in 1796 in Fredericksburg (née Stumpstown) in Pennsylvania to Pennsylvanian Dutch parents. His grandfather was a German immigrant who served in the Revolutionary War and his father was a carpenter. After learning the family trade and how to make pianos in Baltimore, Maryland, he built his own shop in New York City. In 1821 at the age of 25, he moved to Argentina, where his piano-making business was successful.

Old photo of Main Street in Fredericksburg, Pennsylvania, circa early 20th century.
From the Matthews Public Library.

His Early Years

As I researched on, it was astounding to see all the drama he faced so early on in his life! Not only did he fall in love with a woman named Barbara Snavely, have his only child with her and never marry, but he also was taken as a prisoner of war at one point. He was coming back to Buenos Aires from his trip to Europe when the Portuguese captured the ship he was on. He had to escape on foot!

After the dramatic escape, he moved from Argentina to Chile due to the political instability at the time and then from Chile to Peru. He then decided to settle in California. In 1848, just a few days before the historic discovery of gold, James Lick arrived in San Francisco.

How the City’s Mission Bay looked like back in November 1848. Illustration by Bayard Taylor. From the British Library. 

What’s also fascinating is that James Lick’s friend and neighbor back from his time in Peru was Domingo Ghirardelli! And apparently, Lick told Ghirardelli to move to San Francisco. Ghirardelli made his name and fortune selling chocolate while Lick made his buying real estate.

Portrait of Domingo Ghirardelli by Gustavo Luzzati.
c. 1899. From the National Portrait Gallery.

Feats of the Richest Man in California

Illustration of the hotel Lick House by William Laird MacGregor, c. 1876.
Published by the S.F. News Company. From the California History Society.

James Lick was at one point the richest man in California, owning large areas of Santa Clara County and San Francisco, land around Lake Tahoe, a large ranch in Los Angeles County, and all of Santa Catalina Island!

He built a grand hotel called Lick House, which sadly burned down in the fire following the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. Aside from the ostentatious hotel that was destroyed by the fire, Lick had also…

  • donated to the University of California for the construction of the Lick Observatory,
  • built free public baths called the James Lick Baths,
  • founded the California School of Mechanic Arts,
  • erected bronze statues before the San Francisco City Hall,
  • built a memorial to Francis Scott Key (author of the national anthem, “The Star-Spangled Banner”) in the Golden Gate Park,
  • and contributed to the Conservatory of Flowers. (Lick had intended the Conservatory of Flowers for San Jose but it ended up being purchased by San Franciscans and placed in the Golden Gate Park.)
Photo of the Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park in 1895.
From the Western Neighborhoods Project.

The Lick Observatory

Photogravure of the Lick Observatory, c. 1900. From D. Appleton & Company.

The Lick Observatory was “the largest philanthropic gift in the history of science.” It began its operations in 1888 (Regents of the University of California). It was “the first permanently staffed mountain-top observatory” and “the world’s largest refracting telescope” at the time (University of California). There were groundbreaking discoveries and innovations made at the Lick Observatory, including…

  • “Albert Michelson’s use of interferometry to measure the size of Jupiter’s moons,”
  • Edward Emerson Barnard’s discovery of Jupiter’s fifth moon,
  • creation of a “photographic atlas of the moon,”
  • James Keeler’s study of the spectra of stars,
  • the discovery of “unimaginably large numbers of galaxies,”
  • Robert Trumpler’s “confirmation of the general theory of relativity,”
  • “studies of star clusters,”
  • and the discovery “that dark matter absorbs light in space.”

The Lick Observatory sits on Mount Hamilton, east of San Jose. Surprisingly, it’s also where James Lick is buried. The observatory sounds like a must-visit spot for historians and scientists alike!

Photo of the Lick Observatory by C. C. Pierce, ca.1904-1909.
From the California Historical Society.

The James Lick Mill

Per the City of Santa Clara website, this mill is a “a four-stone, water-powered flour mill” built in 1855.

Here’s a plaque placed by the order of the Santa Clara City Council:

According to the plaque, the flour mill was powered by the water from the Guadalupe River. It was converted into California’s first paper mill in 1873 and in 1882, a fire destroyed the original mill. So, the building standing today isn’t the original built by James Lick. In 1902, the newly-built mill became a plant for alcohol manufacture and in 1987, the building was included in the historic trust zone.

Photo showing how the Lick Mill and its surrounding area looked like back in 1905 on an information board in the Ulistac Natural Area.

The James Lick Mansion

Next to the mill stands the mansion. It was “constructed in 1858 and contains a lovely mahogany interior,” which I could not see as the mansion is not open to the public.

The front door. I SO wanted to get a good tour of the interior! For the time being, I am content with finding these photos shared by the Library of Congress.

It was a well-built, pretty structure with decorative yet simple designs.

And near the mansion was another plaque specifically for the Lick Mansion:

Here’s a close-up of the plaque “placed by order of the Santa Clara City Council”:

Per the plaque, this mansion has been built in “Italianate” style and with native redwood. And all 24 rooms have “imported marble fire places”! 👀

Reason Behind the Mansion

The mansion was large, even by today’s standards. And that got me thinking how, perhaps, James Lick would have felt lonely living in it by himself. When I read about the reason why he had built the mansion, I really think he would have been.

Once the construction of the mill was completed, Lick invited his only son, John Henry, to live with him in a small cabin he had. His son was 37 year’s old and had never met his father before! When he arrived, he let his estranged father know that his mother, Barbara Snavely, had passed away a few years ago.

Portrait of John Henry Lick (1818-1891),
only son of James Lick. Dated 1863.
From Matthews Public Library.

According to this snippet from James Lick’s biography, The Generous Miser, (shared HERE), James Lick couldn’t marry her because her father, a local miller and farmer, deemed him too poor at the time. The source shares that James Lick sent photos of the mill to Barabra’s father after it was built, which just shows how he never got over the refusal.

So this man couldn’t marry the woman he wanted to marry, met the child they had together when the said-child was 37, and never remarried. What’s all the more sad is that apparently, he built the Lick Mansion “in hopes of improving their [he and his son’s] relationship” (Misch and Stone 1998). It’s heartbreaking to read that their relationship didn’t improve, and so Lick didn’t bother to furnish the house properly.

John Henry went back to Pennsylvania in 1863 and only returned just before his father passed away.

Next to the Guadalupe River

Various sources mentioned that the Lick Mill and Mansion were located next to the Guadalupe River. I didn’t know just how close the two actually were to the river! They’re literally right next to it:

The Guadalupe River and the Lick Mansion in 2025.
There’s a biking trail and gates of the Mansion Grove apartments in between.

The Rich Yet Lonely Man

Guadalupe River up close.

Despite the wealth and opportunities James Lick had, he lived such a lonely life. He had someone he wanted to marry but couldn’t and a child he couldn’t become close to.

After reading about the reasons behind the construction of the mill and mansion (and the negligence of the latter), I can’t help but think how affected James Lick was by the things that weren’t granted to him.

One might say he would have had his friends. But apparently, many of his contemporaries thought him eccentric. On top of that, rich people are fully aware that most people approach them for their money. So I think it’s likely that he didn’t really have deep friendships.

James Lick was granted uncommon wealth, power and influence but not what he may have truly longed for: a family.

Ephemerality of the World

Chancing upon James Lick’s mill and mansion in the middle of the Mansion Grove apartment complex just made me realize, again, how transient everything in the world is. Yes, there are schools (i.e. James Lick High School, James Lick Middle School, and Lick-Wilmerding High School), as well as a street, park, freeway, and light rail station (i.e. Lick Mill Blvd, Lick Mill Park, James Lick Freeway, and Lick Mill Station) named in his honor.

VTA light rail station.

I mean, there is a crater on the Moon, an asteroid, a village, and even a species of lizard commemorating him! But most people don’t even know who he was. I chanced upon his mansion and mill in the middle of a modern apartment complex and only found out about his life after doing research on my own.

It doesn’t matter if someone was or is the richest person in California. Everyone fades into obscurity, albeit some leave behind names and/or contributions. James Lick did both, leaving behind his name and making big contributions to the public and to the sciences. And yet, he had also become a part of the oblivion of everyone and everything that once was and were.

Lick Monument, ca. 1876.
In Cedar Hill Cemetery in Fredericksburg, PA.
From Matthews Public Library.

As a practicing Christian, this reality affirms my belief: nothing in this world prevails except for God’s Word that continues to change minds, hearts, and souls:

The grass withers and the flowers fall,
    but the word of our God endures forever.”

Isaiah 40:8
Heaven and earth will pass away, but my words will never pass away.

Matthew 24:35

Historical Site Neglected

And as a historian, seeing the mill and mansion of someone so significant to California’s history left as they are in the middle of the apartment complex (next to a parking lot!) is just sad to say the least.

Well… At the very least, the mansion and mill are noted in the apartment map.


P.S. I just realized – it’s called “Mansion Grove” because of the Lick Mansion! 🤯

P.P.S. Here are more posts where history and travel intersect:

P.P.P.S. And here are some aesthetic photos of the Lick Mansion to finally wrap up this post:


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Mission Dolores: A Lovely Chapel of History at the Heart of SF❤️

California missions hold a special place in my heart. I think it’s because I love history so much, to the point of majoring in it in college, that structures dating back to early Californian history mesmerize me so. And because I grew up near one, I have this unfounded affinity towards California’s twenty-one missions.

I remember first reading about them in a history textbook back when I was in elementary school. Then shortly after, when I was in fifth grade, I believe, I got to visit Mission San Juan Capistrano on a field trip. It was such a treat to step foot on the historical site. Reading about the place and then seeing remnants of where Native Americans and Spanish missionaries had once lived blew me away: it was like history coming alive.

After years of mostly focusing on visiting the best coffee spots and bakeries of the Bay, it occurred to me that I hadn’t visited any of its missions. And so, I finally embarked on a journey to Misión San Francisco de Asís, aka Mission Dolores.

⛪Getting to Mission Dolores

To get to Mission Dolores from Berkeley, I rode BART and then MUNI to get to Mission Dolores Park. (As someone who has traveled in San Francisco for some time now, I recommend avoiding the BART stations near Mission Dolores and instead using MUNI or the bus to get to the Park or the Mission directly.)

The gorgeous structure (shown below) right next to the Park was not Mission Dolores; it was a high school named after the Mission.

After a few minutes’ walk, I arrived at the intersection of 16th and Dolores Streets:

When I first saw the structures before me, I had thought that the beautifully-carved beige building was the Mission itself. But I soon discovered that the smaller chapel on the left was the actual Mission founded in 1776 (year of the Declaration of Independence!) and the ostentatious structure on the right was the “Mission Dolores Basilica” that was built much later in 1918 after the 1906 earthquake.

I arrived at 10 AM sharp to explore the sixth Californian mission established under Father Junipero Serra. (The mission is open every day, from 10 AM to 4 PM, EXCEPT for Mondays!) And as announced, the entrance door opened exactly at 10.

For an admission fee of $10 (1 adult), I got to enter through the gift shop to the chapel, view the sanctuary, go out to the area right next to the basilica, through a small museum, out to the cemetery, and then arrive back at the gift shop.

Update 8/27/2025: When I visited another morning (to purchase my Missions Passport), I got to hear the church bells ring!

Update 9/30/2025: But I was told that the bells are supposed to ring only during Mass times. So if you want to hear them ring, visit when Masses are scheduled!

⛪Inside the Historical Chapel

Mission Dolores was a small but lovely chapel, with historical facts about the building, the Spanish missionaries, and the Native Americans placed here and there along with a replica of what it would have looked like back around 1791.

This diorama, displayed in the Mission today, was created for the 1939 World’s Fair on Treasure Island.

What’s noteworthy about Mission Dolores is that it’s the oldest intact building in San Francisco! And it’s the only intact Mission Chapel of the 21 missions created under the direction of Father Junipero Serra.

According to the official pamphlet that was given out, the building still has its original redwood logs, held together with rawhide, supporting the roof.

The informational pamphlet I received after purchasing my admission ticket.
The chapel and sanctuary.
The repainted ceilings of “original Ohlone Indian designs done with vegetable dyes”:

The reredos (decorative altars) and the side altars were all crafted in Mexico, arriving in 1796 and then in 1810.

⛪Museum & Cemetery

Past the chapel, the diorama, basilica, and covered walkway is a one-room museum that used to be a classroom. There were historical artifacts like clothing and items of the Ohlone Indians and Spanish missionaries inside glass displays.

Inside the one-room museum.
“An original iron key that opened the large doors of Mission Dolores.”
Cool Native American artifacts!

Once you exit the little museum, you get to the cemetery. In the middle stands a statue of Junipero Serra sculpted by Arthur Putnam, the famous Californian sculptor. The cemetery is also a garden, with roses gifted by the Golden Gate Rose Society growing here and there along with “traditional native trees, shrubs, flowers, and plants from the 1791 period” (Official Mission Dolores Website).

Statue of Junipero Serra sculpted by Arthur Putnam.

Also, the cemetery has an “Ohlone Indian ethno-botanic garden and examples of Native American plants and artifacts.” I think the biggest said Native American artifact in the garden is the hut behind the statue.

It was mind-blowing to think that the thousands of Ohlone, Miwok, and other First Californians who built and founded the Mission were resting underneath the very grounds I was walking around.

You leave the cemetery/garden by going back into the gift shop, through which you exit the Mission.

⛪Gift Shop

Inside the gift shop, there seemed to be more gifts for practicing Catholics (like rosaries and portraits of different saints) than items for tourists.

Some of the more general items for tourists included magnets, postcards, and these beautiful California Missions tiles:

I ended up getting the following to commemorate my visit to Mission Dolores:

Poster and mini photo booklet showing the 21 California missions plus a “Mission Dolores” magnet. PERFECT for history lovers!

Update 8/27/2025: I didn’t know when I first visited Mission Dolores, but this mission is one of the 10 missions where you can purchase your California Missions Passport. What’s a “California Missions Passport”? HERE is everything you need to know!)

You can’t get it at the other 11, so I highly suggest that you get it while you’re visiting Mission Dolores if you’re interested!

⛪Conclusion: So Worth a Visit!

Mission San Francisco de Asis was a nice historical site to visit – I’d recommend it to anyone who hasn’t been there yet. As a history buff, I’d drop by again and definitely check out the interior of the basilica that I couldn’t view properly. But there were a few things that could be improved. Some of them are…

  1. bigger pamphlet with more information and photos,
  2. maybe an interactive media or slideshow inside the museum,
  3. and lastly but certainly not least, a better restroom for tourists! The restroom at the Mission were blue, plastic containers out in the parking lot. 🙁

But considering the fact that the Mission “receives no public funds” and “rely completely on…voluntary offerings,” it’s completely understandable. Plus, taking that fact into consideration, the Mission is in great shape and doing a great job promoting its history.

P.S. There are loads of great bakeries and coffee spots nearby the Mission. Some of my personal favorites are Tartine Bakery, Craftsman and Wolves, and Stonemill Matcha, which all deserve their own appreciation posts!

P.P.S. Here are some more aesthetic photos of Mission Dolores! ⛪❤️


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International House at UC Berkeley: A Building Steeped in History

Have you heard of “International House,” aka “I-House”? I had never heard of it until 2022 when I found out that such a place existed at UC Berkeley. And after learning about its history and significance, I wish UCLA had an International House as well! Alas, it is only exclusively at Berkeley, NYC, Chicago, Paris, and Tokyo.

I-House in Berkeley, circa. March 2023.

Here’s a post dedicated to International House and its incredible story!

The International House Movement

From International House Berkeley: An Extraordinary History (2022).
Available online HERE.

According to official sources, International House, Berkeley was founded by Harry E. Edmonds with the financial support of John D. Rockefeller Jr. It was the second International House to be built after the first one was founded in NYC in 1924 (also funded by Rockefeller Jr.). Harry Edmonds felt the need to create these “multi-cultural residence and program” centers after discovering the lack of community and support foreign students faced in the U.S.

Here is Edmonds’s chance encounter with a Chinese student that sparked the I-House movement:

“One frosty morning I was going up the steps of the Columbia library when I met a Chinese student coming down. I said, ‘Good morning.’ As I passed on, I noticed he stopped. I went back.

“He said, ‘Thank you for speaking to me. I’ve been in New York three weeks and you are the first person who has spoken to me.’

“With my wife’s insistence, I agreed I had to do something.”

Harry E. Edmonds from The New York Times1

When the second I-House opened its doors in Berkeley on August 18, 1930, it was the “largest student housing complex in the Bay Area and the first coeducational residence west of New York” (International House at UC Berkeley). Even UC Berkeley didn’t have coed housing yet!

As part of the progressive I-House movement amidst the political and social climate of the time, it was met with much resistance in Berkeley. According to the official I-House history book, there was much resistance to men and women as well as foreigners, people of color, and whites living under one roof. And so, it’s all the more incredible that Harry Edmonds chose Piedmont Avenue, “home of fraternities and sororities, which then excluded foreigners and people of color,” as the site for the second International House (International House Berkeley: An Extraordinary History, 2).

From International House Berkeley: An Extraordinary History (2022).
Available online HERE.

Decades of History

Drawing of International House at UC Berkeley.

Through the decades, I-House truly lived up to its mission of intercultural respect, understanding and friendship. Some major examples include:

  • In the 1930s, Allen Blaisdell, the first Executive Director of I-House Berkeley, protested against barbers on campus who refused to cut Black students’ hair and changed the practice.
  • In the 1940s, when Japanese American students faced difficulties, International House “set up a bureau to help these young people reach their homes as soon as government regulations permitted” and “helped them with their finances by locating employment opportunities” (International House Berkeley: An Extraordinary History, 3).

HERE is a really great presentation by the Executive Director Emeritus, Joe Lurie, on the role I-House played in desegregating Berkeley.

Reading the official International House history book and listening to Mr. Lurie and different I-House alumni, it sounded to me that I-House had been a place where students from around the world got to live with each other, learn from one another, and form lasting bonds across borders. I hope that, as the institution approaches its 100th year (in 2030), it continues to do so.

Tenth Decade Cake created by the I-House Dining Staff in 2023.

Architecture

George Kelham with his wife Katherine and son Bruce, 1924. Photo from Ancestry.com. *For a better photo of George Kelham, visit: The Cultural Landscape Foundation.

The man behind the iconic I-House Berkeley building is none other than George W. Kelham, the prolific American architect who also designed the Asian Art Museum (formerly the old San Francisco Public Library); the Roble Hall at Stanford University; Powell Library, Haines Hall, Kerckhoff Hall and more at UCLA; Bowles Hall, Valley Life Sciences Building, Moses Hall (now the “Philosophy Hall”), McLaughlin Hall, Davis Hall, Edwards Stadium, Haas Pavilion, and more at UC Berkeley; and countless more!

And like the many other buildings Kelham designed, I-House at Berkeley is beautiful, with intricate designs and shapes evoking Spanish and Mediterranean architecture with hints of Moorish influences.

The Great Hall.
Staircase leading to the Dining Commons.

And how fitting, too, as California’s long and complex history includes the Spanish colonial period.

Notable I-House Alumni

As one would expect from a residential building created for scholars from around the world gathered in Berkeley to attend its top university, there are countless notable alumni of International House. A list can be found on the official I-House Berkeley website HERE. Among numerous pioneers, Nobel prize recipients, professors and founders, here are just a few of the brilliant men and women who lived at I-House:

Photo of Chien Shiung Wu shown in the book, Ten Women Who Changed Science and the World, by by Catherine Whitlock and Rohdri Evans (Diversion Books 2019).

Chien Shiung Wu Yuan – Chinese-American physicist, professor at Columbia University, and pioneer who made great contributions in experimental physics and atomic science and to the Manhattan Project. There’s a photo of J. Robert Oppenheimer and Dr. Chien-Shiung Wu having dinner at International House Berkeley shared by the Los Alamos National Laboratory HERE.

Photo of Chien Shiung Wu in her laboratory, shared in Ten Women Who Changed Science and the World, by Catherine Whitlock and Rohdri Evans (Diversion Books 2019).

Julian Schwinger – one of the greatest physicists of the 20th century, professor at Harvard University, and Nobel Prize winning American theoretical physicist who developed a relativistically invariant perturbation theory. He did postdoctoral research at UC Berkeley under Oppenheimer and assisted in research at the University of Chicago Metallurgical Laboratory for the Manhattan Project.

Portrait of Julian Schwinger, shared on the Nobel Prize website.

Emmett J. Rice – an American economist, bank executive, and member of the Federal Reserve Board of Governors who served in the U.S. Air Force during WW II as a member of the Tuskegee Airmen. A Fulbright scholar, he integrated the Berkeley Fire Department as its first African American fireman. He was also the father of Susan Rice, former U.S. ambassador to the United Nations and former National Security Advisor.

Photo of Emmett J. Rice
from Federal Reserve History.

Eric & Wendy Schmidt: American businessman, former software engineer, CEO of Google (2001-2011), executive chairman (2011-2015) & American businesswoman and philanthropist. The two met at I-House.

Here’s another photo of Wendy & Eric Schmidt from the I-House blog, I-House: Where UC Berkeley Meets the World.

Eric and Wendy Schmidt seem to have revisited I-House a couple of times. Notably, Wendy Schmidt visited when she was honored as I-House’s Alumni of the Year at the 2014 I-House Gala along with another notable alumni, Dr. Ashok Gadgil, and Eric Schmidt came by very recently for the I-House Executive Director’s Lodestar Speaker Series: “The Promise and Perils of AI” event this year.

And I believe, the Dining Commons has been named after the I-House couple.

Countless More Notable Alumni

Historical photos of former I-House residents displayed in Edmonds’ Café.

This blog post would not end if I were to explore all notable I-House alumni, which includes Abdelkader Abbadi (former UN Director of Political Affairs and journalist), Choong Kun Cho (former president of Korean Air), Hans Rausing (former chairman of TetraPak)and his daughter Lisbet Rausing (senior research fellow at Imperial College, London and author), and Haakon Magnus (Crown Prince of Norway), along with Nobel Prize laureates, scientists, scholars, philanthropists, and more.

Plus, I know personally that the list shared on the official website is yet far from being comprehensive, as notable individuals such as W. Harold McClough (founder of Perth construction and Clough Limited), Walter John Jr. (distinguished aerosol physicist, research scientist, and founder), Michael J. Belton (astronomer), Gerhart Friedlander (nuclear chemist who worked on the Manhattan Project), Stewart L. Blusson (geologist and philanthropist), and so many other incredible men and women have also stayed at I-House. This fact alone is a testament to what hub of brilliant minds International House was and is!

I-House Today

Today, I-House remains sitting atop the hill overlooking Berkeley, across from the Law School. Though it retains its old silhouette, iconic dome and other features, I-House has undergone several renovations, including an addition of the ADA-complaint ramp and a complete transformation of its café (from the “I-House Café” to “Edmonds’ Café.”) Sadly, the Heller Patio has now lost the lush trees and greenery that previous residents so enjoyed and referred to as a “garden” within the busy city.

But it still houses over 600 students and scholars (both international and domestic) each year. I truly believe that the magic of the place stems from the many talented residents that bring their unique experiences and stories from around the world. I hope that International House at UC Berkeley, a remarkably unique building steeped in rich history, never loses the passion, faith, and integrity it started out with 94 years ago.


P.S. Here are some useful links related to I-House at UC Berkeley:

  • The official International House at UC Berkeley website
  • A blog by Harry Edmonds’ great-granddaughter, Alice Lewthwaite
  • A blog post on the first I-House (in NYC) written by a recent resident at I-House Berkeley
  • A fascinating, engaging book titled Perception and Deception: A Mind Opening Journey Across Cultures written by Executive Director Emeritus Joe Lurie. If you are interested in learning about cross cultural understandings and misunderstandings or just want to broaden your knowledge, I highly recommend this book!
  • A book titled The Golden Age of International House Berkeley: An Oral History of the Post World War II Era, written by Jeanine Castello-Lin and Tonya Staros of Berkeley Historical Society. It’s a wonderful compilation of invaluable oral history shared by residents who lived at I-House during the late 1940s and early 1950s.

P.P.S. 2024 marks the 100th anniversary for the International House in NYC! Here is everything the first ever I-House is doing this year to celebrate: https://www.ihouse-nyc.org/centennial/


  1. Goodman, G. (1979, July 8). “Harry Edmonds, Who Established International House, Is Dead at 96.” The New York Times, p. 35. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/1979/07/08/archives/harry-edmonds-who-established-international-house-is-dead-at-96-a.html.
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Gem of a French Bread: Fougasse from Fournée Bakery

One thing I’ve noticed after moving up to NorCal is that bakeries here are infinitely better than the ones in SoCal. What I mean is, bakeries in the Bay feel more authentic and artisanal, and often times they are. I think there are better options for bread here than in the south. Please correct me in the comments below if I’m mistaken, but I can’t think of SoCal equivalents to The CheeseBoard Collective Bakery, The Acme Bread Company, Arsicault Bakery, and Tartine Bakery (spots all deserving separate posts of their own!)

Anyways, this post is solely on Fournée Bakery in Berkeley, CA – and the gem of a French bread they make: fougasse.

Front entrance of Fournée Bakery

Fournée Bakery

The Claremont Club & Spa that you see outside the bakery.

Facing the tennis courts of the historic Claremont Club & Spa, Fournée Bakery is located in the small cluster of restaurants and stores at the intersection of Claremont Ave, Russell St, Domingo Ave and Ashby Ave. Its neighbors include Peet’s Coffee, Tulipan Floral, and Rick & Ann’s.

Fournée Bakery and its neighbors.

On a busy day, the line can go all the way down almost to Rick & Ann’s! As you can see in the photo above, there are some parking spots with meters. But this area can get crowded as this area is shared by other restaurants and stores, along with guests and visitors from the Claremont hotel and its tennis courts.

Bread Galore!

Baked goods at Fournée.

Fournée Bakery offers an array of delectable baked goods, including morning buns, scones (fruit, walnut & coriander), croissants (fruit, veggie, chocolate almond, almond, traditional butter, egg & ham, ham & manchego cheese), cheese rolls, pains au chocolat, pains au raisin (says it’s “pain aux raisins” online), and this marvelous French bread called, “gougère” that I fell in love with! It’s this savory puff of a bread that tastes like cheese and egg. Simply delicious!

They also have these sandwiches that seem to be popular amongst visitors. I always see at least one person in front of me order one. I haven’t tried them still, as I’ve already developed my go-to items and always end up ordering them instead. I’ll have to try them soon!

But I did try their Farmer’s Bread and can say with confidence that it’s good!

Pastries Galore!

I sure can’t forget to mention Fournée Bakery’s excellent pastries!

The pastries behind the glass display vary from day to day, but the selection usually consists of Meyer lemon shortbreads, cookies, brownies, and quiches. Often times, they have these seasonal items – I HIGHLY recommend that you get them. I don’t remember regretting getting their seasonal items, like ever! Some seasonal items that I’ve seen include seasonal fruit scones, bûche de Noël (during Christmastime), fruit tart, and my favorite, the rhubarb tart. I fell hard for it last summer and am currently waiting for it to come out again.

The rhubarb tart that I fell for. I didn’t know how delicious a plant could taste in a tart!
Oh…How I miss the taste of the sweet, fruity, cool crunchy bite of Fournée’s rhubarb tart! 💗

The Gem of a Bread: Fougasse

Yet, the item that truly, truly shines the brightest of ’em all at Fournée is fougasse. You may ask – what is “fougasse”? Pronounced “fu-gas,” it’s a bread from Provence, France that’s shaped like a flat leaf. Per online sources, it’s related to the focaccia of Italy, hogaza of Spain, fogassa of Catalonia, fügassa of Liguria, pogača of the Balkans, and pogácsa of Hungary.

Fougasse from Fournée. It’s huge!

Until Fournée, I had never heard or seen of a fougasse. And even to this day, I don’t see fougasse often in other places in the Bay. So when I first laid my eyes on fougasse with its ingredients listed as in the photo below, I had to try it. I mean, it was a bread made with duck fat!

Ordering the strange bread called, “fougasse” was one of the best decisions I made last year. No joke – the first bite was heavenly: a harmonious blend of salty and savory, with just the right amount of the perfect seasoning.

Ever since that fateful day, I’ve shared fougasse with everyone around me, including my sister who also fell in love with the beautiful French bread. I became Fournée Bakery’s unofficial patron & ambassador of fougasse, visiting the bakery almost every week for it and spreading news of its exceptional taste to everyone I meet.

Conclusion

To tell the truth, I thought about gatekeeping Fournée Bakery and its gem of a bread, fougasse. But it’s too good of a spot to keep to oneself, and besides, it’s already well-loved by its frequent visitors and fans like me!

On a final note, not only is the bakery stocked with delectable bread and pastries, but also, they’ve got a nice seating area to enjoy: in front of/behind Peet’s and Tulipan Floral.

Taking a sip of Peet’s and admiring the flowers of Tulipan while taking a bite of Fournée’s gems is such bliss! 😊

P.S. Note: Fournée Bakery is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. For hours and other info, visit their website HERE or their IG account HERE.

P.P.S. FYI, the front window of Fournée is under renovation. I think I overheard someone say that a car had crashed into the store front or something. So be aware that the front of the bakery will look slightly different!

P.P.P.S. IMPORTANT UPDATE: Fougasse is currently unavailable! ☹ The bakery staff told me that they don’t have the duck fat to make them and they don’t know when they’ll have their duck fat again…

Update 1/27/24: Fougasse is back, baby! 🙌