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Mission San Jose: The One in Fremont Where Estanislao Lived🌄

Moving along the El Camino Real1, I made my visit to Mission San Jose last month. I naturally assumed by its name that it was located somewhere in San Jose. Interestingly enough, it’s actually located in the city of Fremont!

Getting to Mission San Jose

Unless you already live in or nearby Fremont, I think the best way to get to the city is by car or BART. I chose to ride the BART train, which conveniently brings you to Fremont station.

The Fremont BART station.

Once you arrive, exit to the East Plaza where there’s a bus bay for AC Transit buses:

I took Bus 211, which takes you straight to the Old Mission. The distance from the BART station to the Mission is only about a 10 minute drive, but it takes about 20 minutes by bus. That being said, it’s a pleasant ride through the city. You’ll pass by a high school and street named after the Mission, along with mission-style buildings:

Mission San Jose High School.
Check out this mission-style McDonald’s!
Mission Boulevard. Along the road was this monument marked “Mission San Jose 1797 Fremont California” along with El Camino Real mission bells.

First Impressions

Mission San José, August 2025.

As Google Maps advised, I got off at Mission & Washington Blvd. and faced up close the Mission I had only seen in pictures. I have to say, it was so much larger than I had expected! I think it’s actually bigger than Mission Dolores and Mission Santa Clara. Facing it up close, Mission San José was a giant, white block of a chapel, uniquely imposing in its simple grandeur.

The Mission was right on a busy road and atop an elevated area, below regional parks and mountains like Mission Peak. Unlike Mission Dolores and Mission Santa Clara, it also had a long, semi-circle flight of stairs:

It was large also in terms of its extent. Per this map stationed at the front, the Mission Church was part of a complex of buildings that included a separate visitor’s center called, “Pilgrim Center,” a museum, cemetery, St. Joseph Main Church, Dream Garden, St. Joseph School, and more:

Map of St. Joseph Catholic Church/Mission San Jose & Diocesan Shrine of St. Joseph.

With so many spots to check out, I wasn’t sure where to head to first. But since my main focus was the Old Mission, I decided to go where the “Mission San Jose” signage was pointing to: the Pilgrim Center.

The Pilgrim Center & Mission Museum.

Pilgrim Center (Visitor’s Center & Gift Shop)

Walking up the ramp and passing by adorable (and maybe historic?) benches, I arrived at the entrance to the Pilgrim Center.

*NOTE: Mission San José, its Pilgrim Center & Museum are all closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Click HERE for the hours.

When I pushed open the wooden door, I was immediately met with this view of historical artifacts, timeline, and an informational video playing in the background:

What you see right when you enter the Pilgrim Center. There were wooden benches for visitors to watch the informational video and/or rest. Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D80FaxvbDTA

On the left-hand side was the entryway to the Gift Shop:

Informational one-pagers on the Mission along with relevant books.
The Gift Shop was a large room selling items for both religious Catholics and visiting tourists. The room beyond it looked like the Mission Office, but it seemed only open to staff.

There were souvenirs like magnets, keychains, crosses, postcards, and more. (Some items are even available for purchase online! Link to Mission San Jose Online Gift-Shop: https://oldmissionsanjose.square.site/)

The cash register area where you can purchase your California Missions Passport (with the Mission San José cover) and get your stamp!

On the right was the front area for purchasing admissions tickets and entering the Museum:

And while I didn’t have to for Mission Dolores, I needed to check in my backpack before entering the Museum. (I was allowed to take my small bag with me, though.) The staff at the front also handed me this high-quality pamphlet:

The visitors’ guide pamphlet.

Admission for one adult was $15, which costs more than the admissions ticket at Mission Dolores. But as I’ll share later, it was totally worth it!

Before proceeding with my self-guided tour (or reading the pamphlet for that matter), I had to linger a while to look at all the artifacts and paintings displayed in the Pilgrim Center. I hadn’t even begun my self-guided tour yet but was already flooded with so much history!

Wooden priest wearing robe and sandals next to plaque commemorating Fray Junípero Serra, presented by Serra International.

And before a comprehensive review of the Mission Museum, here’s a brief history of Mission San José!

History of Mission San José

The Beginnings

Founded on June 11, 1797, Mission San José was the 14th of the 21 Spanish missions established in California. It was founded by Fermín de Francisco Lasuén de Arasqueta, a Basque Franciscan missionary. Born in Vitoria, Spain on June 7, 1736, Fermín Francisco de Lasuén became a Franciscan priest in 1752. Serving as a missionary in Mexico and then in California, he spent the rest of his life in California until his death at Mission San Carlos Borromeo in Carmel-By-The-Sea. As Junipero Serra’s successor as president of the California missions, Lasuén established 9 more missions after Serra’s death.

Portrait of Father Fermín Francisco de Lasuén inside the Mission Museum.

Mission San José came after Mission Nuestra Señora de la Soledad and before Mission San Juan Bautista (both founded by Fermin Francisco de Lasuen.) What’s interesting about the California missions is that they weren’t established in geographical order. One would assume Mission San José was founded after its closest neighbor, Mission Santa Clara, but it wasn’t.

Drawing of Mission San José at the Mission Museum. It was shown in the San Francisco Sunday Chronicle.

Ties to Mission Santa Clara

Drawing of Mission Santa Clara at the Mission Museum. It was also shown in the San Francisco Sunday Chronicle.

However, Mission Santa Clara, which was founded 20 years earlier, was crucial to Mission San José’s beginnings. It was the Native Americans who had already been baptized at Mission Santa Clara who built Mission San José and became part of the new community in Fremont, area known back then as Oroysom.

According to Francis Florence McCarthy’s The History of Mission San Jose, Mission Santa Clara even sent a gift of “600 cows, 4 teams of oxen, 3 mules, 4 tame horse, 2 bulls, 28 steers and…a flock of 78 sheep, 2 rams, and 20 other sheep.”

And it was Father Magín Catalá of Mission Santa Clara who performed the first baptism at Mission San José, to a Native American woman named Josefa. (To read about Magín Catalá and Mission Santa Clara, click HERE.)

Copy of the 1797 Baptism Register displayed inside the Museum.

But Why Mission “San José “?

You may wonder as I did: why is the Mission called, “Mission San José” when it’s not even in San Jose? I found out that it’s because the Mission is named after St. Joseph, the stepfather of Jesus and husband of Mary, just as the city of San Jose is. Because St. Joseph is the patron saint of pioneers, many of the early settlements in California were founded in his honor.

Stained Glass window art of St. Joseph and baby Jesus. Photo by Josh Applegate.

So, that’s why: Mission San José and the city of San Jose are both named after St. Joseph. (He also happens to be one of Santa Clara University’s patron saints, along with St. Clare of Assisi and St. Ignatius of Loyola.) This is explained inside the Mission Museum, along with more interesting facts:

The full name of the Mission was “La Mision del Gloriosisimo Patriarch San Jose.” But according to the visitors’ guide, it is now known as “the parish of St. Joseph Catholic Church, Mission San José of the Diocese of Oakland.”

Early Years

Earliest drawing of Mission San José. By Captain William Smyth, 1826. Displayed inside the Mission Museum. To view it digitally, click HERE.

During its early years, Mission San José was where Franciscan missionaries taught the Ohlone Native Americans Christianity and Spanish ways of life, including cattle and wheat farming. The very first missionaries arrived at the Mission on June 28, 1797, about 2 weeks after its dedication.

Earliest photograph of Mission San José, 1852. Displayed inside the Museum. For more historical photos & drawings of the Mission, visit: https://www.saintjosephmsj.org/mission-images-of-mission-san-jose/mission-historical-drawings/
Lithograph of Bay Area Native Americans (based on watercolor by Louis Choris), 1816.

From just 33 Native Americans in 1797, the Native American population in the Mission reached 1,886 by 1831. But the population fell drastically after epidemics; about 80 percent of the Native Americans in the Mission died due to European diseases. The Mission recruited diverse Native American groups to maintain itself (as it was the Native Americans who did all the work at the Mission), and it soon became a hub of different Native American peoples, including the Ohlone; Bay, Coast, and Plains Miwoks; Yokuts; and Delta Yokuts. With its diverse population, Mission San José thrived and became prosperous from all the ranching and farming.

Drawing of Mission San José by Henry Miller (1857), displayed in the Museum.

The Native American Perspective

What’s fascinating and heartbreaking at the same time is what the Native Americans experienced. They came in contact with people and animals like horses that they had never seen before. Intrigued and hospitable to the newcomers, they traded goods with them and eventually worked at the Mission during the day while living in their villages. But when diseases killed large numbers of their population and livestock grazing disrupted their livelihood, they had no choice but to live at the Mission, where they were expected to work and participate in religious activities.

What becomes more tragic is that neophyte2 Indians could not leave the Mission without permission once baptized. Even if they were allowed, they had to return no matter what; otherwise, soldiers would be sent to catch them. Their freedoms were further restricted in other ways. They were rebuked and/or punished when they didn’t obey orders, and Priest Pedro de la Cueva confiscated ornaments and other items related to ritual dancing, giving them back only when he allowed a performance. (But the Native Americans at Mission San José fared better than those at Mission Santa Cruz, who were even whipped when they didn’t follow orders!)

Photo by Wolfgang Hasselmann.

And again, Native Americans did all the work at the Mission, from constructing it to farming, weaving, cooking and more.

The work of Franciscan missionaries who risked their lives to spread the Christian faith is incredible. Though there were unexemplary priests, there were those who actually followed Christ and lived sacrificial lives, treating the Native Americans with love. Yet, because the missions were part of Spanish Empire’s goal of subjugating Native Americans, they had inherent elements that reflected its imperial nature.

Photo by Adolfo Félix.

Accounts from Explorers

Did you know that explorers from Russia set foot in the Bay and its missions? I knew about their explorations in the Arctic and Alaska but I had no idea that they actually traveled all the way down to Fremont! And these explorers wrote and drew about missions like Mission Dolores and Mission San José, along with the Native American inhabitants:

Russian explorer Nikolai Rezanov (left) & German naturalist Georg von Langsdorff (right).

🧭A Russian count named Nicolai Rezanov led an expedition into the San Francisco Bay in 1806 and had a chance to visit Mission San José. German naturalist/physician Georg von Langsdorff was there to write all about it in his book, Voyages and Travels in Various Parts of the World, During the Years 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, and 1807 (talk about a long title!) Below is his drawing of the dancers he saw at Mission San José in 1806 along with a diorama at the Mission Museum showing dancer figures as depicted by Langsdorff:

HERE is a better photo of Langsdorff’s drawing.

🧭In addition to Rezanov and Langsdorff, there were Otto von Kotzebue and Louis Choris.

Baltic German naval officer Otto von Kotzebue (left) & German-Russian artist Louis Choris (right).

Kotzebue visited the Bay Area multiple times during his voyages to find a sea route through the Arctic. Louis Choris was the expedition artist who accompanied him, and many of his drawings are shown throughout the Mission Museum:

To view better photos of the drawings above and for more works by Choris, visit the official Muwekma Ohlone Tribe website at: https://www.muwekma.org/customs-traditions.html

Secularization & Rancho Era

Just like the rest of the California missions, Mission San José was secularized in 1836 after Mexico’s revolution in 1821 ended Spanish colonial rule. And like the rest, it fell into decay. The Mexican Governor appointed administrators to take over the Mission, divided up mission lands into “ranchos” and gave them out to powerful families.

First administrator of Mission San José, Jose de Jesus Vallejo. He wrote that “many men of little scruples” defrauded Native Americans of “what was justly theirs as parceled out by the authorities.”

The ecosystem as well as the buildings of what had once been Mission San José deteriorated. And the Native Americans who had lived at the Mission were unable to claim the lands held in trust for them by the Franciscan friars. While some worked at the ranchos and at the San Jose Pueblo and those who recently joined the Mission returned back to their villages, many died of starvation and disease.

To summarize, Mission San José started out as a mission where Franciscan missionaries shared their faith with the Native Americans of the Bay, under the rule and provision of the Spanish Empire. Then the Mexican government took over the Mission, secularized its lands and gave them out to Californio3 families, ushering in the Rancho Era. It experienced even more changes when the Mexican-American War of 1846 broke out. American settlers from the east arrived in large numbers and squatted on the lands of the Californios. Then with America’s victory and discovery of gold in 1848, a record number of immigrants flooded into California.

Gold miners at miner’s camp in El Dorado, California. Photo from the Library of Congress. Per Remembering California Missions by Janice Stevens, Gold Rush miners called the Mission “Mission San Joe” (77).

California Statehood

With California’s statehood in 1850, the Mission’s ecosystem and landscape forever changed. It was used as a store/saloon until the American government returned a small part of the Mission land back to the Catholic Church. And in 1865 under President Lincoln’s leadership, some missions, including Mission San José, were given back to the Catholic Church.

Tragically for the Native Americans, their plight “became nothing short of hell,” with the arrival of the early Anglo pioneers as they faced slavery, disease, liquor, massacre, and genocide (from Jack Holterman’s “The Revolt of Estanislao” in Indian Historian 3.1, p54).

Photo of Mission San José, circa. 1866 by Thomas Houseworth & Co. From the Library of Congress.

More History: Chief Estanislao

Before visiting Mission San José, I did a quick search online and read that there was this Native American leader named “Estanislao” who led hundreds in a revolt. I couldn’t find much info on Estanislao throughout my visit except for this one-pager that mentioned his name once:

One-pager titled, “Unrest at the Mission.” I’ve digitally highlighted Estanislao’s name, which is mentioned just once.

But I think his story deserves more than just a quick mention!

Life of Estanislao

Born in present-day Modesto, CA, Estanislao was called “Cucunuchi” before being baptized as “Estanislao.” Some sources, like A Cross of Thorns by Elias Castillo and Jack Holterman’s “The Revolt of Estanislao,” say that he was born at the Mission with some Spanish ancestry. He was part of the Lakisamni tribe of the Yokuts people and lived on the banks of the Stanislaus River, known back then as “Río de los Laquisimes.”

The Franciscan missionaries invited Estanislao to receive a Christian education at Mission San José, and in 1821, he was baptized at the Mission. While living in Mission San José, he was an “alcade,” or a municipal magistrate appointed to oversee other Native Americans. Various contemporaries wrote about him, pointing out that Estanislao stood out both in his appearance and abilities.

“About six feet tall, a bit more fair in
complexion than usual, a man of athletic physique
with a face well bearded and an air of gallantry on
horseback-such was Estanislao.”

From Jack Holterman’s Article, “The Revolt of Estanislao.” 1970.

I couldn’t find any paintings of Estanislao, so I drew him myself, after a statue in Modesto, CA.

The Revolt

When Estanislao and other Lacquisamnes were given permission to visit their native homes in the fall of 18284, they decided not to return. Estanislao wrote a letter to Friar Narciso Durán announcing their decision:

“We are rising in revolt… We have no fear of the soldiers, for even now they are very few, mere boys… and not even sharp shooters.”

Estanislao’s message to Durán. From Robert H. Jackson and Edward Castillo’s book, Indians, Franciscans, and Spanish Colonization: The Impact of the Mission System on California Indians.

Leading other baptized Native Americans back to their lands, Estanislao revolted against the Mexican government and the missions. He joined forces with other Native Americans who had also been abused, including those from Mission San Juan Bautista and the notorious Mission Santa Cruz. A Native American leader from Mission Santa Clara named Cipriano and his followers also joined him.

“You will tell our good Father that from now on our real exploits begin. Soon we shall fall upon the very ranches and cornfields… And for the troops, now as always, we have nothing but contempt and defiance!”

Message from Estanislao to Durán, delivered by a neophyte named Macario. From Elias Castillo’s A Cross of Thorns: The Enslavement of California’s Indians by the Spanish Missions.

Surrender & Forgiveness

Though they fought bravely and were able to withstand attacks from the Mexican army multiple times, Estanislao and his followers eventually had to surrender.

On May 31, 1829, Estanislao returned to Mission San José and asked Narciso Durán for forgiveness. Friar Durán forgave Estanislao and his men, petitioning Governor José María de Echeandía to forgive him as well. Durán also charged the commander Ensign Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo with the atrocities he and his men had committed against Native American civilians during their attempts to capture Estanislao. Though there was a hearing ordered by the Governor, only one soldier was charged with the crime of killing a woman and sentenced to just five years of servitude.

With the pardon granted on October 7, 1829, the short-lived revolt by Estanislao came to an end.

Returning to Mission San José, Estanislao taught Yokuts language and culture until his death. Along with the exact details of the final years of his life, the date and cause of his death vary. Some sources write that he passed in 1839 during a malaria epidemic while others state that it was in 1838 due to a smallpox. I also came across a book that said it was in 1832 when he died of smallpox.

Significance of Estanislao’s Story

Local History

I think Estanislao and his story are significant for a number of reasons. First of all, Stanislaus River and County are all named after him. Per Historic Modesto, the battles between Chief Estanislao and the Mexican army took place by the Stanislaus River. Meaning “glorious” in Slavic, Stanislaus is the original for the Spanish name of “Estanislao.” From Stanislaus River, Stanislaus County and other names like Stanislaus National Forest and California State University, Stanislaus followed.

Native American History

Secondly, Estanislao’s revolt shows the plight Native Americans experienced with the arrival of new settlers. As mentioned earlier, they weren’t allowed to leave the missions whenever they wanted. Not only that but they were forced to work and abide to rules enforced on them, being punished if not obeying. And many of these rules being forced upon them went against their old ways of living, including traditional marriage practices. Situations in the missions had become so bad that Native Americans had to take the matters into their own hands. Estanislao’s revolt gives insight to what they had to endure and what they did to protect the loss of their freedom, dignity, and culture.

Photo by Cristian Siallagan.

*It’s important to note that Estanislao and his followers fought to fend off the Mexican army and protect their freedoms. According to the Stanislaus River Archive, there is “no indication in the records that his rebellion against the Mexicans and Spanish ever involved attacking others, just defending his freedom against the attacks aimed against him.” Despite this, there were casualties on both sides. And Native American civilians, including elderly women, were murdered when Commander Vallejo and his men “viciously lash[ed] out at any Indian they found” (Castillo 188).

Not only was there Estanislao’s Revolt at Mission San José and Cipriano’s uprising at Mission Santa Clara, but there were also a host of other rebellions: at Mission Dolores (led by Pomponio in the early 1820s), another one at Mission Santa Clara led by Yozcolo (a Lacquisamne alcalde like Estanislao), and virtually at all the missions. As written by the author Elias Castillo, these Native American rebellions like Estanislao’s revolt are testaments of individuals “willing to sacrifice their lives to try to halt an inhumane system” (190).

Fremont, CA. September 2025.

Effects of True and False Christianity

Thirdly, it’s a clear example of how true Christian way of living brings different peoples together while false Christian way of living tears society apart. Many Native Americans welcomed the newcomers into their lands, and accepted the Christian faith that the Franciscan missionaries shared and taught. They respected those who truly followed Jesus in their ways of living, including Father Magín Catalá of Mission Santa Clara.

It was when so-called priests forced obedience upon the Native Americans and punished them (with whips!), and when foreigners subjugated and treated them with no dignity that the Native Americans took initiatives to protect themselves. Estanislao’s revolt exemplies the effect of false and true Christianity, from the eruption of conflict to the reconciliation at the end.

It shows that different cultures, nations, and peoples can only become one in truth, love, and forgiveness: in Christ.

Interesting Facts About Mission San José

🌉Mission San José is the only mission on the east side of the San Francisco Bay.

⛪It’s the second largest mission, right after Mission San Luis Rey. (It definitely felt bigger than Mission Dolores and Mission Santa Clara at first glance!)

🐄Mission San José was not only one of the biggest, but also one of the most prosperous. Per the Mission Museum, there were 12,000 cattle, 13,000 sheep and 13,000 horses in 1831. It’s hard to imagine that there were that many livestock at this site once upon a time:

Up this slope is Mission San José & the Mission Museum.

🎟️The Mission San José museum building is the only surviving structure from the original 1809 Mission.

🎼Music played a big role at Mission San José. While Native Americans of the area had their own music and instruments like timbrels, whistles, flutes, and rattles, they were attracted to those brought by the Spanish missionaries. Friar Narciso Durán (the one who forgave and accepted Estanislao back to the Mission) led the way of teaching Spanish and religious music. From 1806 to 1833, he composed music and organized Indian choir, orchestra, and concerts, launching Mission San José’s musical fame throughout California.

19th century engraving of Narciso Durán and Native American girl, displayed inside the Mission Museum.
Page copied from the 1813 choir book by Narciso Durán, accompanied by information on Mission San José’s musicians. To view a digitized version of Durán’s choir book, check out Santa Clara University’s “Mission Santa Clara Music Manuscripts” collection HERE.

The Mission Museum

Now, back to the Mission Museum. Once the convento or sleeping quarters of the Franciscan friars, the Mission Museum is a series of rooms connected by small openings. Each room has a theme like “The Franciscan Journey,” that details the lives of Franciscan missionaries or “The Ohlone Indians: The Indian Way,” that explains everything about the original inhabitants of the area.

Map shown on the visitors’ guide.

Room #2 “Divine Pilgrimage: The Holy Family”

The first room you get to once you enter the museum is the “Divine Pilgrimage: The Holy Family” room.

It’s a white room filled with Biblical paintings and drawings, from a portrayal of Noah’s Ark to series of artworks detailing Jesus’s crucifixion.

Noah’s Ark on the Mount Ararat by Simon de Myle (1570).
These panels portraying Jesus’s crucifixion were hung above around the room. They’re very similar to the lamps inside Mission Santa Clara’s chapel.

I loved seeing all the artworks showing the people and events leading up to Jesus’s resurrection. But as a historian, I personally was disappointed to find that some of them were just replicas, not the original/historical works. For instance, Noah’s Ark on Mount Ararat is a copy of the original oil painting that was acquired by Sotheby’s from the Neger Gallery. And some were obviously recent works created by modern artists, like this artwork:

Artwork showing Moses and the Burning Bush.

Nonetheless, the information displayed in the room was organized well and great to view:

I especially enjoyed seeing actually historical artifacts, like this cupboard:

The small notice behind the display glass says that the “Historic Cupboard” was “built directly into the wall.” It also says that the room with this built-in cupboard (Room #2 of the Museum) was likely a dining room used by the Franciscan missionaries.

Room #3: “The Franciscan Journey”

The next room titled “The Franciscan Journey” was designed like a Franciscan missionary’s room. Showing an open Bible on a wooden desk, narrow bed, crucifix, and a Franciscan habit (clothing), this room gave a glimpse of what the lives of Franciscan friars looked like:

There were these QR codes you could scan to learn about the objects on display and about the Franciscan missionaries who risked their lives journeying across the globe to share their Christian faith.

Along with portraits of important Franciscan missionaries like Junípero Serra and Fermín Francisco de Lasuén and an entire section on Father Narciso Durán, there was a crucifix called, “The San Damiano Cross” hanging on the wall.

The San Damiano Cross.

Per the accompanying description, the San Damiano Cross was the cross before which St. Francis of Assisi (founder of the Franciscan order) had prayed to. It was said that in 1206, St. Francis received a vision from Jesus, who instructed him to rebuild the Church. I thought that this crucifix, unlike some of the paintings in the museum, was the actual historical artifact. But I found out afterwards while doing research that it’s not!

The actual crucifix is in the Basilica of Saint Clare in Assisi, Italy today. Besides this confusingly authentic-looking replica at the Mission San José Museum, another replica also hangs inside the church of San Damiano, the site where St. Francis received his commission from God.

The California Missions Room

The fourth room, titled “21 California Missions,” was an entire space dedicated to the 21 California missions. The walls were decorated with illustrations and info on each of the 21 missions:

Plus, there was this neat miniature model of Mission San José:

The note reads: “Presented to the Mission San Jose Museum July 31, 1988,” “Built & Donated By Twelfth Nighters Miniature Club of San Jose, CA.”
I mean, just look at the details! 👀

As I’ll share down below, the above miniature is a very good model of the actual Mission Church.☝️

From the “21 California Missions” room, you can either go to Room 5 or Room 9. I recommend following the order of the rooms and heading to Room 5, as you’ll be heading towards the exit from Room 9.

The Native American Room

The fifth room, titled “The Ohlone Indians: The Indian Way,” was packed with artifacts, drawings, and information all about the Native Americans who lived in the area before the Spanish arrived. I mean, it was literally an explosive display of artifacts! (I hope they were all or at least mostly actually historical.) There was just so much to view that I began to realize why there was an entire building serving as the Mission Museum. And as a history lover, I thought that this room alone made the $15 admission fee worth it!

This diorama in the middle of the room showing the Ohlone Indians living their lives was a nice touch to the exhibit:

I think I even spotted some of the artifacts on display being used by the figures inside the diorama!

Aside from the ancient baby carriers, another interesting artifact were these sticks used in games:

Marked sticks used in games.

Very similar artifacts were shown inside the one-room museum at Mission Dolores (click HERE to view the blog post). And sure enough, the accompanying note explains that these stick games were played by many different tribes in the Bay Area, including those at Mission Dolores:

This drawing shows Ohlone Indians at Mission Dolores playing the stick game. Reprint of Louis Choris’s illustration, shown inside the Mission Museum.

I will touch upon this topic more (hopefully in the near future), but I must briefly mention how strikingly similar these stick games look to traditional Korean game sticks called, “yuts.” Maybe all historical games look similar, but I find it fascinating that both Korean yuts and Ohlone sticks have cross markings on them and each stick has both “up” and “down” sides.

Anyways, “The Ohlone Indians: The Indian Way” room was a stellar display of Native American artifacts, with maps, illustrations and explanatory notes everywhere. In fact, it was one of my favorite rooms at the museum!

There was also a section dedicated to activist Dolores Marine Galvan. Descendant of the Ohlone of Mission San José, she worked with Rupert Costo of American Indian Historical Society (AIHS) to protect the Ohlone Indian Cemetery. They successfully prevented the Department of Transportation from constructing a freeway through the historic cemetery.
Photo of Chief Tarino at Alisal Rancheria, 1887. Chief Tarino was the leader of Chochenyo Ohlone who lived during the Mission’s early and later years. When the Mission was secularized, he formed a village called “Alisal” to foster Ohlone culture. He passed away when he was 120!
Cool genealogy chart of direct descendants of a Bay Miwok man and Ohlone woman. I read that hundreds of people in the Bay Area today are descendants of Miwoks and East Bay Ohlones.

St. Joseph Room & Chapel of Healing

After “The Ohlone Indians” room, you get to Rooms 6 and 7. They are more religious than historical, catering to Catholics and their respect towards St. Joseph. The sixth room, titled “The Life and Miracles of St. Joseph,” details the life of St. Joseph with paintings and objects while the seventh room is an actual chapel inside the Museum:

Entrance to St. Joseph Chapel of Healing.

During the Gold Rush, this chapel was used as a store until it was remodeled into a chapel in 1950 under the leadership of Reverend John A. Leal. Under the leadership of Pastor Anthony Huong Le, the chapel was renovated and renamed “St. Joseph Chapel of Healing.” I read that this space has been deemed sacred, formally blessed in 2024, and visited by Catholic pilgrims.

Inside St. Joseph Chapel of Healing. August 2025.

Just like the other Catholic chapels I’ve visited, there were these panel artworks on the side walls, showing the final moments of Jesus’s ministry on earth:

14 panels on the walls of St. Joseph Chapel of Healing. They portray scenes from Jesus’s crucifixion before His resurrection.

After viewing the decorative sanctuary and wall art, I exited the chapel, totally unaware that there was another room inside the chapel! Called “Sacristy and Sacred Vestments,” Room #8 is accessible only once a month during the Chapel’s monthly Mass. You can view sacred vestments and historic items stored in the sacristy every month on the 19th (except Sundays) at 8 AM during the Mass.

So if you’re interested in viewing these sacred and historic objects, you’ll need to schedule your visit not by the Mission and Museum hours but by the monthly Mass time.

Last Rooms (Room #9, #10 & #11)

The remaining rooms of the Mission Museum are titled the following: “The History and People of Mission San José,” “The Making of the Mission San José Church,” and “Mission San José of Today.” They showcase drawings, artifacts, and information about Mission San José during its Rancho Years, the original 1809 construction as well as the destruction and subsequent reconstruction in 1985, and its active role in Fremont today.

The Rancho Period

Among the Rancho Era artifacts, there was the St. Joseph branding iron that marked objects and livestock of the Mission with its logo, “J.”

Check out this wooden livestock branded with the “J”:

Branded wooden horse (left bottom) displayed along other Rancho Period items.

Gothic Church & Construction of Replica

After a major earthquake in 1868 destroyed the original 1809 adobe church of Mission San José, a wooden church was built in Gothic style and used until the adobe church could be rebuilt.

Photos of the old Gothic church displayed in “The Making of the Mission San José Church” room. It’s fascinating how different the Mission San José Church looked for almost a century!
Old pew and “pew rent” name cards from August 1982, before the Gothic church’s move to San Mateo, CA.

When the authentic replica was completed in 1985, the Gothic church was moved to San Mateo after being used for 96 years. Per the St. Joseph Catholic Church website, the replica is “one of the most authentically reconstructed of the California missions,” made with as much of the original materials and building methods as possible.

More artworks, artifacts, and photos from “The Making of the Mission San José Church.”
Original adobe brick, roof tiles, and other remnants of the destroyed church displayed.
Remnant of hand-painted and stenciled wallpaper from old Mission Church. Produced in France, c. 1810-1830.

Vietnamese Americans’ Contributions

Photos of Mission San José Church being reconstructed.

One thing that stood out as I walked through the final rooms of the Museum was the role Vietnamese Americans played in Mission San José’s modern history. Along with Pastor Michael Norkett and art conservator Sir Richard Menn, Vietnamese American Huu Van Nguyen participated in the rebuilding of Mission San José. Vietnamese Americans are also among the many who have donated to and volunteered at Mission San José:

Wooden plaque honoring the donors and volunteers of Mission San José.

And lastly but not least, the current priest at Mission San José is the Vietnamese American pastor, Fr. Thi Van Hoang.

Video showing Pastor Thi Van Hoang speaking. Inside the “Mission San José of Today” room.

Visiting the Mission San José Church

Front view of Mission San José.

There was so much to see, read, and take in inside the multi-room museum that I was literally worn out by the time I came back out to the Pilgrim Center. But the real deal, the adobe Mission San José church, remained yet to be explored. After spending hours in the Mission Museum, I finally made my way through the Pilgrim/Visitor Center to the Mission Church.

*You can only access Mission San José from its side entrance, which can be accessed through the Pilgrim/Visitor Center.

Per California Missions and Presidios: The History & Beauty of the Spanish Missions by Randy Leffingwell, the above buttress wall sections are all that remains of the old convento, or priests’ living quarters (146). And apparently, the Gift Shop and Museum used to be all connected to the Mission Church!

Inside the Old Mission

This is the side door and the only entrance to the old Mission Church:

*No flash devices are allowed inside the Church.

Behind the heavy wooden door lies this beautiful scene inside:

On the left, behind the front entrance door were these relic-like items. There were no accompanying captions or descriptions, but I think they were/are used for religious purposes:

I saw more items stored above the front entrance, but it was inaccessible to the public:

According to the St. Joseph Catholic Church website, the box-like structure on the right is a Spanish-style organ called, “Rosales Opus 14 Organ.” It was ordered back in 1819 and finally arrived at the Mission in 1989 (after 171 years!)

Down the Aisle (Feat. Religious Artworks)

As I made my way down the chapel under brightly-lit chandeliers, there was something to marvel at wherever I turned:

Lovely cystal chandeliers against a wooden, white-washed ceiling.

I mean, just look at the intricate details of the hand-painted wall art! 👀

There were other paintings hung down the chapel, too. I think the top middle painting depicts Joseph, Mary, and baby Jesus and maybe, the rest depict Franciscan missionaries and saints:

But I’m not positive as there were no accompanying captions or explanatory notes.

There were also these sculptures of Christ, St. Joseph and a Franciscan missionary (I’m guessing Junípero Serra):

…and this statue of Christ on one of the side altars (called “Ecce Homo”), which I read is the original from the 1809 adobe church!

Ecce Homo, side altar near the front entrance door.

 Sanctuary

But of course, the highlight of the chapel was the sanctuary.

The altar consisted of a gilded reredo featuring a statue of St. Joseph and Christ on the cross in the middle, accompanied by candles and angels (both with and without bodies). Above was a painting of Jesus, under sculptures of a dove (representing the Holy Spirit) and God the Father.

Sculptures of God the Father and God the Spirit (dove) above God the Son, Jesus. Flanking the middle are paintings of Christ on the cross and the Holy Family of Joseph, Mary, and Jesus, also below the Holy Spirit and God the Father. For more photos of the sanctuary, visit the official Mission website HERE.

Historic Sight to Behold

Stepping inside the old Mission Church was such an experience! I so appreciated the fact that the replica church was rebuilt to be as historically accurate as possible, carefully following the Mission’s inventories from the 1830s and 40s and using as much of the original materials and methods as possible. Kudos to the conservator and restoration craftsman Sir Richard Menn and his assistant Huu Van Nguyen! 👏👏👏

The interior of Mission San José was definitely unique from the other mission chapels, with its green, crimson, and yellow palettes, gilded accents, flashy mirrors and crystal chandeliers. It was such a sight to behold; I can’t imagine how stunning it would have been for those living in the 1800s!

Mission Patio Garden/Cemetery

In between the Mission Church and Pilgrim Center/Museum is the Mission Patio Garden. It’s a quick walk from the Mission Church or the Museum; you just have to follow the sign:

The Mission Patio Garden was a small area featuring a running fountain, benches with dedications and a statue of Junípero Serra.

Per a plaque on the ground, the fountain, patio, and garden are “dedicated to the glory of God,” and commemorates the contributions of the “Abel, Donovan, Morgan, and Jelley families.” It was also a historic cemetery where early settlers, World War II heroes, and other individuals were interred. Many others are buried below the Mission church, including many Spaniards and Robert Livermore, whose grave is marked inside the renovated chapel:

Marble grave marker of Robert Livermore. Born in England, he became a prominent Californian ranchero. The city of Livermore is named after him.

More Cemeteries

Even more are buried in the Mission Cemetery, which is the larger cemetery on the other side of Mission San José. It was gated, so I think it’s off limits to the public like the cemetery at Mission Santa Clara.

And there’s also a separate cemetery located about a mile from the Mission where thousands of Ohlones are interred. It’s the historic cemetery that activist Dolores Marine Galvan and Rupert Costo of American Indian Historical Society (AIHS) protected from the construction of a freeway.

It took me about 20 minutes to walk down Washington Blvd. from the Mission Museum to reach the Ohlone Indian Cemetery:

According to online sources, there’s a grave mark that commemorates 4,000 Ohlone Indians buried at the site. I couldn’t see the plaque from the outside, but I did get to see wooden signages (pictured above). There’s also a shopping center right across the street called “Ohlone Village,” which I think is named in their honor:

Final Thoughts

Mission San José, August 2025.

Visiting Mission San José in Fremont was such a treat! Not only did it have an entire building dedicated to its history, a ton of artifacts, a gift shop, and restrooms, but it also had such unique charm. From its iconic white block of a chapel to its beautifully reconstructed interior, Mission San José was a delight to explore.

One thing that I personally found distracting as a history lover was the presence of nonhistorical artifacts and paintings. They made it confusing to know which artifacts were or weren’t historical. I think it’d be helpful if the Museum only displayed real artifacts or if the replicas were clearly marked as “replicas.” This might not be of importance to others, but I found it a shame for replicas to muddy the actual artifacts on display. Because historical artifacts have utmost value and meaning if they are the actual objects used by those in the past!

What I did love were the QR codes and dioramas that enhanced my self-guided tour as well as these arrows that helped me navigate through the museum. Also, “Acknowledgments” posted alongside informational on-pagers were great as they listed out the sources behind the artifacts and information displayed:

Mission San Jose Today

Once where cultures collided, the parish of St. Joseph Catholic Church, Mission San José of the Diocese of Oakland is a historic site of faith and sacrifice, of musicians as well as local legends like Estanislao. Rebuilt and preserved by the talents and contributions of many, its story continues as a place where all gather and unite under Christ.


P.S. Today, five flags fly outside the Pilgrim Center/Mission Museum. They represent the entities that owned/ruled over Mission San José throughout its 228 history:

  • Spain (representing Spanish Empire)
  • Vatican City (representing the Catholic Church)
  • Mexico
  • California
  • and the U.S.
View from the Pilgrim Center/Museum, looking down towards the Bay.

P.P.S. After the 1868 earthquake, three of Mission Church’s original bells were transferred to the Gothic-style church while the fourth bell was given to a church in Oakland and recast. Today, the Mission Church houses all four of its bells, and they ring on special occasions. 🔔

These bells were cast in Mexico and hung in the original 1809 adobe church. Closeup photos of the bells can be viewed on the official Mission website.

P.P.P.S. And here are aesthetic photos of Mission San José to wrap up the post!


Footnotes

  1. “El Camino Real,” which means “The Royal Road” in Spanish, is the 600-mile path connecting California’s 21 Spanish missions. ↩︎
  2. “Neophyte” is a term for baptized Christian Native Americans. ↩︎
  3. “Californios” is a term for the Spanish-speaking Catholics who lived in California when the region was under Spain and Mexico (from 17th to 19th centuries). ↩︎
  4. These restricted visits were called “paseos.” ↩︎

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California Missions Passport & Stamps

I did touch upon the topic of California Missions Passport in my post on Mission Santa Clara. But I decided to dedicate an entire post, as it turns out to be much more significant than I previously thought, especially for history lovers!

California Missions map by R.M.K., INC. I got it as a souvenir at the Mission Dolores gift shop.

There are 21 Spanish missions built along the California coast, and some history buffs go on pilgrimages to visit all of them. But I had no idea until recently that there’s actually a thing called, “California Missions Passport,” with which you collect stamps at each of the missions you visit. Once you collect all 21 stamps, you can apply for and receive a “Certificate of Completion.” (There’s also a “Certificate of Progress,” awarded to those who collect 6 stamps from any of the passport’s four sections, and a “Certificate of Support” for, I think, those who donate to the California Missions Trail.)

Where to Get the Missions Passport

While you can get stamps at all missions, you can’t for passports. Some missions, like Mission Santa Clara, don’t even have souvenir/gift shops! According to the California Mission Store, passports are available only at the following 10 sites:

  1. Mission San Diego
  2. Mission San Luis Rey
  3. Mission San Gabriel
  4. Mission San Fernando
  5. Mission San Buenaventura
  6. Mission San Miguel
  7. Mission San Antonio
  8. Mission San Juan Bautista
  9. Mission San Carlos
  10. Mission San Francisco (aka Mission Dolores)
  11. Mission San José *It wasn’t included in the list, but I saw passports being sold at the Mission San José gift shop when I visited!

So I recommend purchasing a passport when you’re visiting one of the above missions before visiting the other 10. (I had to go back to Mission Dolores to get my passport after I found out that Mission Santa Clara didn’t have them.)

With my newly acquired California Missions Passport at Mission Dolores! August 2025.

The passport cost $5.95, $6.46 tax included. I think it’s definitely worth it if you’re planning on visiting as many or all missions.

Update 8/30/2025: Another thing to note is that Missions Passports have different covers, depending on where you get them. The passport that I got in SF features Mission Dolores, but the passports sold at Mission San José look like this:

How to Apply for Certificates

Once you reach the milestone of visiting 6 or all 21 missions, you can receive your digital certificate. *While collecting stamps qualifies a person for the certificates, they appear to be more for completing the trek/cycle down or up the Missions Trail.

To receive the digital certificates, you need to notify the Lowman Publishing Company with a copy of your stamped passport for verification. It says on their website that they will then send over the digital certificate, which can be shared online and/or printed.

For more specifics and sample digital certificates, visit the California Missions Trail HERE.

My Progress

So, after revisiting Mission San Francisco de Asís for my passport, I’ve officially embarked on my stamp collecting journey! I’ll be tracking my progress here:

Mission San Francisco de Asís (aka Mission Dolores)

Mission Santa Clara de Asís

Mission San José

…More coming soon!

Photo by Christopher Stark.

P.S. Per the California Mission Store blog, the Missions Passports were created when two missions requested Bob and his team at Lowman Publishing Company to make them. I wonder which ones?

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San Jose Japantown: A Hub of History (feat. Manju & More)

San Jose’s Japantown

When “Japantown” is mentioned, I think most people immediately think of the one in San Francisco. Well, at least that’s how Google seems to think according to search results. And honestly, that’s how I thought. But there’s actually another Japantown in the Bay Area, one in San Jose. Albeit smaller, it’s a town of Japanese American history, with its oldest store dating back to the 1920s. For those who aren’t familiar with San Jose Japantown, here’s a full review of the little hub of history, great sweets, and more!

San Jose Japantown, June 2025.

The Beginning

Photo of Taiyo Maru, one of the five ships that traveled from Japan to San Francisco in 1920, from the Japanese American Museum of San Jose.

Also known as “Nihonmachi” or “J Town,” San Jose Japantown sits just north of Downtown San Jose. It’s one of the last remaining historical Japantowns in the U.S. (the other two being SF’s Japantown and LA’s Little Tokyo). Its origins go back to the 1890s when the first-generation Japanese (“Issei”) single men immigrated to the Santa Clara Valley for farm and labor work. When these men first arrived, they found refuge in San Jose Chinatown (aka “Heinlenville”) that was already established nearby in 1887.

It was only years later in the early 1900s that the Nihonmachi was established, providing boarding houses, bathhouses and more for single migrant workers.

Map of old Chinatown and Japantown before 1939, displayed in the Japanese American Museum.

Arrival of Japanese Women

But after the Gentlemen’s Agreement of 1907 limited immigrant male workers from Japan but allowed family immigration of Japanese residents in the U.S., more Japanese women began to arrive. Many came as picture brides, and second-generation Japanese children (“Nisei”) were born, changing the landscape of the town to be more family-oriented.

From the Japanese American Museum in San Jose.

Chinatown & Pinoytown

While San Jose Japantown was growing, its neighbor Chinatown faced its demise. Due to the anti-Chinese immigration laws and the Great Depression of the 30s, Chinatown became bankrupt and was destroyed when the City of San Jose seized the land and razed it to the ground.

Heinlenville Park commemorates the San Jose Chinatown (aka “Heinlenville”) that once existed at its location.
Sheltering Wing (2021), sculpture by Roger W. Stoller.
There’s a timeline display explaining the history of San Jose’s Chinatowns and the role Mr. John Heinlen played in the formation of the last Chinatown (Heinlenville), along with commemorative plaques honoring San Jose’s Chinatowns that had existed.

As such, Japantown became the major Asian town center for the next wave of immigrants, the Filipinos, as San Jose Chinatown had once been for the first Japanese immigrants. And just as Japantown was formed near Chinatown, Pinoytown was formed near both ethnic towns.

Pinoytown mural in Japantown, by artists Jordan Gabriel and Analyn (Ana) Bones. Pinoytown thrived from the 1930s to the 1950s. Though it no longer exists, its history and memories are being shared by Filipino Americans and groups like the Filipino American National Historical Society of Santa Clara Valley.
The Filipino Community of Santa Clara County at Japantown.

From a Ghost Town to a Historical Site

But after the Imperial Japanese Navy’s infamous bombing of Pearl Harbor, all Japanese residents, including Japanese American citizens, were forced to leave their homes. About 120,000 Nikkei (people of Japanese descent) were evicted and sent to internment camps from 1942 to 1945. During this time, San Jose Japantown became a ghost town with most buildings empty.

After World War II, when everyone was allowed to return home to the West Coast, many had to begin their lives all over again after losing their lands, properties, and everything they had worked for. Through the resilience of the Japanese Americans, San Jose Japantown became, once again, the Asian town center it once was, where three generations of Japanese Americans preserved their culture and history. The town has seen ups and downs through the decades: thriving during the 50s and 60s, declining in the 70s with the passing of the Isseis, and once again seeing revivals led by the politically active third-generation Japanese Americans (“Sansei”).

San Jose Japantown Today

Today, San Jose Japantown stands strong with a history of over a hundred years. As mentioned in the beginning, it truly is a hub of history and is well-maintained so, with historical plaques and markers explaining its story through the decades since the late 1800s.

You can find these signages throughout Japantown that explain the town’s history during various decades.

And there are commemorative plaques and sculptures, like this rock sculpture erected in honor of the “Issei Pioneers”:

Plaque accompanying the rock sculpture above.

Not to mention this ingenious “historical landmarks of San Jose’s Japantown” QR project by a girl scout troop! When you scan the QR code on certain benches in J Town, you can learn more about the history behind each location.

For instance, when you scan the QR code on this bench in front of this home called the “Hori Building” with your phone, you can read more about what was once a midwifery and home of a Japanese midwife named Mito Hori.

Japanese American Museum of San Jose

But if you, like me, are not satisfied with historical signages and markers, then I highly recommend visiting the Japanese American Museum of San Jose (JAMsj).

Look at these koi fish going up the steps to the museum – brilliant!
And this beautiful artwork at the entrance!

It was such a well-maintained museum detailing the history of Japanese Americans:

Through historical photographs, artifacts, replicas, and more, you can see how they first arrived in the Bay and grew a community and town in their new homeland through hard work.

Display area showing how the first-generation Japanese Americans arrived in the Bay.
Photos and artifacts of the bachelor migrants who arrived as farmers and laborers in the Santa Clara Valley, aka the Valley of Heart’s Delight.

Hardships & Injustice

The museum also shows the devastating effects Imperial Japan’s attack on the United States during World War II had on these hardworking Japanese American residents and citizens and the ensuing injustice they faced when the U.S. government failed to see and treat them as citizens and forced them into internment camps.

“WWII Incarceration” display area showing details of 10 “War Relocation Authority (WRA)” camps plus the Crystal City Interment Camp.
Miniature display of an internment camp.

Resilience

What was inspiring was just how these Japanese American residents and citizens, despite the devastation, hardship, and injustice they faced, never gave up. They never stopped working hard for their survival, for their loved ones, and for their honor. Just looking at the paintings and artworks drawn by those trapped at the internment camps and seeing their woodwork (handmade with extremely limited resources) was truly moving:

Beautiful artworks created by Japanese Americans at internment camps.
Each artwork was unique and powerful.

Simulation Room

Another memorable part of the museum was the Barrack, a simulation of a WWII American Barrack room at an internment camp. It was constructed by Jimi Yamaichi, carpenter, construction foreman at the Tule Lake camp, and co-founder of the Japanese American Museum of San Jose who was sent to the Tule Lake Segregation Center with his family. He lived an incredible life of persistence, of working for the community around him, and of educating others about the injustice he witnessed and lived through firsthand.

Stepping inside the replica truly brought history to life and helped me to tangibly see what the Japanese American families experienced.

Replica of a typical Barrack Room, which, I learned, housed a family of six! Even though families put up curtains, I was told that there was no privacy…
Outside the Barrack Room. I’m not sure if the exterior had been reconstructed to be historically accurate, though; I couldn’t find any info on it.

Hard Work of Issei Farmers

There was also an outside garage-like area showing the history of the Issei farmers and their lives in the Santa Clara Valley. Here is a display of a typical pre-war and early post-war Japanese American farm house:

There were historical everyday items displayed, along with photos of Issei farmers:

There was even this mochi maker! As a Korean American, I recognized it right away as it looks similar to the traditional mortar and pestle set used to create tteok. (Tteok is Korean rice cakes dating back to at least 500 BCE.)

And there were actual farm tools and machines used at the time:

And this Model-T Ford, too:

I learned from this exhibit area that many of the items were from Mr. Eiichi Sakauye, co-founder of the museum. He was a successful Japanese American farmer and businessman of the Santa Clara Valley who even invented farming machines and techniques!

This exhibit of the Japanese American Farm Experience allowed me a glimpse into the hard work and determination of the pioneering Japanese Americans, including Mr. Eiichi Sakauye.

Regiment 442

I would love to watch this documentary one day!

Another section of the museum exhibit that was eye-opening was the part on Regiment 442. The 442nd Regimental Combat Team was formed in 1943 and made up of mostly Nisei, second-generation Japanese Americans from both Hawaii and the mainland U.S. Fighting for the United States in Europe during World War II, the 442nd Infantry Regiment was “the most decorated unit for its size and length of service during the entire history of the U.S. military” (U.S. Army).

Map of the 100th Infantry Battalion/442nd Regimental Combat Team’s Campaigns, Battles, and Contributions displayed inside the museum.

The Most Decorated Unit

As the official U.S. Army website explains, these Japanese American soldiers had to fight 2 battles – out in the warfront abroad and at home, where they weren’t treated or viewed as citizens. What’s incredible and heartbreaking at the same time is that these Japanese American soldiers fought while their families were detained at internment camps. Some Japanese Americans did refuse to get drafted and fight for a country that didn’t consider them citizens (understandably so!), but many chose to fight for the U.S., risking their lives to prove their allegiance to their country. I mean, the approximate 14,000 men fought so bravely that they “ultimately earn[ed] 9,486 Purple Hearts, 21 Medals of Honor and an unprecedented eight Presidential Unit Citations” (U.S. Army).

The Empire of Japan and its followers who were loyal to it until suicidal deaths were the ones responsible for the deaths of countless men, women, and children throughout Asia and for the deaths of American sailors, Marines, soldiers, and civilians at Pearl Harbor. It’s heartbreaking that the innocent, hardworking Japanese American citizens and residents were treated as enemies by the U.S. when they viewed their new home as their country. And all the more heartbreaking that the Japanese American men risked and sacrificed their lives to prove their innocence.

Artifacts of the 442nd Regiment soldiers, including helmets, flasks, boots and the New Testament.

Nichi Bei Bussan (Unofficial Japanese American Museum & Historic Store)

There’s also an unofficial Japanese American museum inside a store called Nichi Bei Bussan. Its translation being “Japanese-American Mercantile,” Nichi Bei Bussan’s history goes back to 1902 when Mr. Shojiro Tatsuno founded its first store in SF’s Chinatown.

The store was at Gough Street, at the intersection of Post and Buchanan Streets as a department store until Mr. Tatsuno and the other Japanese American residents and citizens were forced to leave for the internment camps. After Mr. Tatsuno and his family were able to return to their homes in California, his son Masateru took over the reopened family business in San Francisco (until it closed in 1997, after 95 years) while his other son David (a Cal alumnus!) opened a second store in San Jose in 1947.

Arlene told me that there’s a documentary about her father, Mr. David “Dave” Tatsuno, who filmed a documentary illegally with legally acquired tools on life at the Topaz War Relocation Center in Utah when he and his family were interned there.

I so luckily ended up inside the 78-year-old store in San Jose and got to speak with the store’s owner, Arlene, who is Mr. David Tatsuno’s daughter. So, in addition to exploring traditional kimonos, various Japanese items from origami to tea ware and books, I got to speak with someone who was part of J Town’s story and of Japanese American history.

Portrait of a Family: The Tatsunos

Arlene’s family history was so fascinating that I think I stayed at the store for over an hour just listening. Her grandfather was the second son of a merchant family in Nagano, Japan. Since family businesses went down to the first-born sons (like how it was elsewhere throughout Asia and the West at the time (i.e. law of primogeniture)), he emigrated to San Francisco in 1893, arriving at Angel Island all by himself at the age of 21.

Arlene also showed me this book, Behind Barbed Wire, by Paul Kitagaki. He tracked down Japanese Americans in photographs taken by Dorothea Lange, Ansel Adams and other photographers and took photos of them or their surviving family members decades after the old photos were taken. It took him 10 years to compile this book of photos and interviews. As described in the blurb, his photos reveal “the strength and perseverance of the subjects [and their families].”

Displayed at the unofficial history museum at Nichi Bei Bussan is Behind Barbed Wire. In the book, Arlene’s photo (taken when she was 70) is shown beside a photo of her father and grandfather when he was around 70. The photo of the Tatsunos (right before the forced relocation) taken by Dorothea Lange can be viewed HERE.

There were so many other stories Arlene shared with me about her grandfather, father, and brother that I cannot write them all here. If you are a Japanese American or someone who loves history, I highly recommend hearing them from Arlene yourself, especially about her brother Rod!

Rod Masatoshi Tatsuno carried the Olympic Torch on its way from Nagano, Japan to Salt Lake City during the 2002 Winter Olympics.

Sweets, Coffee, and More

San Jose Japantown has other places to visit aside from its official and unofficial history museums. Here are my top four spots:

1. Shuei-do Manju Shop

Manjus are traditional Japanese sweets. Its origins can be traced back to when Japanese Buddhist monks/envoys brought over the Chinese mantou or “steamed buns” during the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The mantou evolved to suit Japanese tastes and became the distinct, sweet manju as it’s known and enjoyed today.

Photo of the manju menu board.

Shuei-do Manju Shop has been making their manjus since 1953. They’re so good that they were specifically requested for Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko of Japan in 1994 when they visited the U.S.

From bottom left to right, clockwise: yomogi, kinako, brown inaka, and green tea manju.
White inkaka, habutai, white manju, and monaka.
Green tea manju, chi chi dango (raspberry flavor), kinako, pink white, peanut butter, and pink tsubu.

Everyone I know have approved of Shuei-do Manju’s high quality. ⚠️But here are a few things to be aware of:

  • They have irregular hours, only open from Thursdays to Sundays, from 10AM to 4PM.
  • The butter mochi is only available on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.
  • I think some items are seasonal, as they were always unavailable when I visited this summer (i.e. kuri and peanut).
  • If you want to try all the flavors or specific flavors, you need to come early (i.e. right when it opens) as items get sold out throughout the day. Here’s the menu board one day in the afternoon:

The price for a 6 piece manju box (any manjus of your choice) was $15. I think it’s a reasonable price for one of the best manju shops.

9/30/2025 Update: If you want to get a taste of Shuei-do Manju but can’t make it all the way to San Jose, fear not! You can get them in San Francisco, too. Kissako Tea in SF Japantown sells Shuei-do manjus during the weekends, so you can get them while you try Kissako Tea’s onigiris and treats.

2. Roy’s Station Coffee & Tea

This Japantown coffeeshop has everything: coffee, tea, food, and history. It’s a family-owned cafe that once was a Mobil gas station called, “Bill & Doug’s Gas Station” that opened in 1938. It was then taken over and operated by Mr. Roy Murotsune for 50 years as Roy’s gas station after he returned from the internment camps.

Photos of what the coffee shop looked like when it was a gas station, along with a photo and drawing of Mr. Roy Murotsune.

Mr. Murotsune, his wife Esther, and their families were part of San Jose’s Japantown since the early orchards days. In 2009, their children and grandchildren transformed the old station into Roy’s Station Coffee & Teas, which has been bringing the J Town community together every morning ever since.

Inside Roy’s Station.

I kid not when I say this coffee shop has everything: they have merchandise, good wifi, and this retro coke machine that actually works! I simply had to try it out and I did:

It says online that the coffee shop opens at 8 AM every day, but the doors were open with customers ordering when I got there at 7:50 AM. Roy’s Station seemed like a community favorite, even approved by this stray cat named Panda. (I was told that this stray cat always comes by to chill. And yes, I was told “Panda” was his name!)

Roy’s Station gets a stamp of approval from Panda, too! 🐼

3. tōno coffee project

A little off the heart of Japantown is a recently built apartment called, “Exhibit at Jtown.” And on its first floor is “tōno coffee project,” which I have designated as one of the best matcha spots in the South Bay!

I chanced upon this place one day when I was having serious match cravings and I happened to be around the area. I have not yet tried their coffee (which, considering their name, I really should), but I can say with total confidence that the matcha latte at tōno is really good. If you are a matcha connoisseur, you may have at times encountered and not liked matcha latte that’s all milk and barely any matcha. Well, at tōno coffee, you can savor the thick and rich matcha flavor as it flows down your throat oh-so-smoothly.

Iced matcha latte at tōno coffee project. 💚But the drink was small in size compared to the price ($7). But then, again, since it’s exquisitely good, I can see why.

tōno coffee project is open from Thursday to Sunday, from 9 AM to 5PM.

Within a short walking distance from tōno is this little resting area/park with cool wall arts.

Outdoor street art park next to Exhibit at Jtown. If I remember correctly, there was this plaque commemorating “The Chinese Methodist Episcopal Church,” which, I think I read, had disbanded.
There were other wall arts, but I loved this one by Kevin Lyons the most. Isn’t it cute and fun?

4. Santo Market

“Serving San Jose since 1946,” Santo Market is a family-operated grocery store. Interestingly, you can’t go inside the actual market; you need to order from outside and pick up the grocery items/food/beverage at the counter when it’s ready:

I tried their tuna shoyu poke salad ($14). Though I can’t really compare it to poke in Hawaii as I’ve yet to visit, the tuna shoyu poke salad was good, especially the seasoning of the tuna shoyu:

The store is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. But I highly recommend that you visit on a Tuesday or a Saturday when they have their scrumptious strawberry mochi!

The strawberry mochi (pack of 2) is an absolute delight: there’s juicy strawberry with sweet red bean paste inside a soft, chewy layer of pink mochi.

It’s so good that when I went the first time to Santo Market on a Tuesday morning around 10 AM, all the strawberry mochis had sold out! The cashier told me that people line up since 8 a.m. for the mochi and they sell out at around 9:15.

And sure enough, when I visited another Tuesday at 8:15 a.m., there was a line already. And by 9 AM (opening time), there was a long line:

Long line at Santo Market before the store even opened…

One pack of “Fresh Strawberry Mochi” (consisting of 2 pieces) was $6. Despite waiting in line for about an hour before the store opened, a bite of it made it all worth it. 🍓

*Per their Instagram account, Santo Market seems to not have strawberry mochi on some Saturdays. Be sure to check their IG page before your visit!

Places To Buy Souvenirs

If you’re visiting J Town in San Jose and want to buy souvenirs (while supporting local businesses), I recommend the following spots:

1. Nichi Bei Bussan

The unofficial history museum/store mentioned earlier has a plethora of new and vintage consignment items full of Japanese culture and history.

Inside Nichi Bei Bussan.
I adored those little plates with fruit and flower drawings on them!

I ended up splurging on these vintage items:

Copies of Nagasaki Harbor Light: An English Language Monthly. They just seemed like such fascinating historical sources to read.
Vintage postcards of Kyoto, “Fine Views of Kyoto.”

2. Kogura Co

Kogura Company is another historical store owned by a Japanese American family, passed down multiple generations. It was established by Mr. Kohei Kogura in 1928, so it’ll be turning 100 in 2028! According to its official website, it has been in its current location in 1934, and so, is “the oldest business to occupy its original location in any Japantown in the United States.”

Books on San Jose Japantown’s history are sold at Kogura.
I really liked being in this little ceramics corner at the store.

Unlike Nichi Bei Bussan, I think none of the items at Kogura are consignment. And there were also more souvenir-like items on sale.

And this neat sushi-shark sculpture!

Shark wrapped in sushi:🦈roll.

Per this flyer explaining the history behind “Sushi Shark,” San Jose held a city-wide art event in 2001 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of San Jose Sharks. Illustrator and artist Doug Wright was selected to build a 3-D sculpture for J Town, and so he designed and built the above Sushi Shark. Sushi Shark has even appeared in Olympic Torch Runs! Apparently, it’s permanent home is now Kogura Co.

There were these postcards of Sushi Shark for sale at Kogura, so I couldn’t resist getting some.

Stickers, pins, and postcards at Kogura Co.
The illustrations on both postcards are by Tamiko Rast. Sushi Shark (2014) was created to honor her uncle, Dough Wright. Fun fact: Tamiko is Mr. Roy Murotsune’s granddaughter! Talk about generations of a family contributing to their community!

3. Empire Seven Studios

Next stop, we have Empire Seven Studios, an art gallery and gift shop next to Exhibit at Jtown and tōno coffee project. After getting your coffee/matcha latte from tōno, you can walk over to Empire Seven to view artworks by various artists and maybe even purchase their merch.

My personal favorites were these:

“Pet Store” by Kristina Micotti, an award-winning illustrator whose artworks are also sold at SFMOMA Museum Store.
Floral paintings by Lacey Bryant and Ceramic Frogs by Cynthia Gonzalez.
I don’t know who designed and made them, but these face sculptures were so unique and their titles hilarious!

I got this San Jose Japantown sticker from Empire Seven Studios:

4. Japanese American Museum of San Jose

Of course, the Japanese American Museum of San Jose also had a small gift shop.

Gift shop inside JAMsj.

I ended up purchasing these two Hokusai postcards, as they reminded me of the Japanese American immigrant farmers.

Besides the four places shared above, there are so many other spots to buy souvenirs from. Shuei-do Manju Shop and Roy’s Station Coffee & Tea each have their own merchandise for sale. Plus, there are stores that sell ukuleles! (I think there are these ukulele stores and several poke spots (like Santo Market) in J Town because of the deep ties between Japanese Americans and Hawaii, as the early immigrants who didn’t settle in California mostly settled in Hawaii.)

Conclusion

Compared to SF Japantown, San Jose Japantown has less shops, restaurants, and activity in general. But this community-based town is a great place to immerse oneself in Japanese American history while visiting historic stores and museums and getting high-quality Japanese sweets and more.

Resilient Like the Plum Blossom

The symbol of J Town in San Jose is a plum blossom. In Chinese, Korean, and Japanese cultures, plum blossoms symbolize resilience, perseverance, and hope, as they bloom in early spring after enduring the harsh conditions of winter.

🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸

Like the plum blossom, Japanese Americans of the past centuries endured the challenges of immigration and then great injustice when their mother country attacked their new country, the United States, and when the country they saw as their home viewed and treated them as aliens and enemies. Despite being forcibly removed and incarcerated in internment camps for three years, the Japanese American residents and citizens never stopped working hard: men fought for the U.S. during WWII to prove their loyalty and integrity and families persevered when they had to build their lives all over again.

San Jose Japantown is a testament to their pioneering courage, inspiring hard work, and moving resilience like the plum blossom.

Photo by Xinyi Wen.

P.S. I learned that while the Japanese immigrants (like other ethnic immigrants) faced discrimination when they arrived in the Bay, they were welcomed by some Americans. It says on the Japanese American Citizens League San Jose Chapter website that the Americans of the Methodist church were one of those who welcomed them, and that’s why some Japanese Americans became Methodists and founded the Wesley United Methodist Church in 1895.

The Wesley United Methodist Church founded by Issei Christians. The first church structure at this site was built in 1913.

P.P.S. There is this miniature replica of San Jose Japantown inside Nichi Bei Bussan. It doesn’t cover all of J Town but still is such a neat representation of the historic town.

Miniature replica of San Jose Japantown, 5th St and Jackson St, 2024. Inside Nichi Bei Bussan, July 2025.
Look at the mini Shuei-do Manju Shop (blue banner)…
…and there’s Roy’s Station Coffee & Tea!

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From, The Time Traveler

I wrote a piece for The Fool’s World magazine at the Raleigh Review Playhouse Office. As “The Time Traveler,” I thought my writing on time travels would be perfect to submit as a travel story. Alas, it was rejected by the “literary travel guide.” Nonetheless, I thought I’d share it here on Lit Time Travel since it sums up why I call myself “The Time Traveler” and why I continue to and aspire to write.

Photograph by Jordan Madrid


From, The Time Traveler

            As countless many others dream of doing, I would love to travel to wherever I want at any given time of the year. I would go everywhere, from cosmopolitan cities to rundown historic sites, and do everything I want to do, from sipping dark roast drip at my go-to café to witnessing nature at its purest and its grandest. And maybe one day, I will be one of those lucky globetrotters who get to go everywhere and share their journeys while everyone else sit in their homes and view the world through their eyes. But until then, I’ve decided to resort to time traveling.

            It was actually a decision made quite early on in my life, when I was mature enough to realize my (and most everyone else’s) reality. We’re planted like little seeds in the wide round pot of the world, given light and rain to sprout and connect with the other sprouts around us. It’s a wonderful thing, really, to be given a tiny spot in the world to learn, grow, and spread roots. But some seeds like me want to move around. And when one’s dreams and desires don’t match one’s reality, it can be frustrating to say the least. So, what can a seed that wants to explore the world do when it can’t? Time travel.

            As an experienced time traveler, allow me to share some of the ins and outs of the art. First, there are different modes of time traveling. Yes, you heard that right. One mode is the time traveling done through recollections and imaginations. Everyone has done this, though some have more mastery over it than others. It’s when a person is taken back in time within one’s mind, reliving the words and emotions stored inside, or when a person is propelled forward to the hopes and/or fears of the future. What I mean by mastery or the lack of is that most people do this time traveling involuntarily and unexpectedly, when a word or an image triggers their memories or stirs images of days to come.

            To be honest, I haven’t mastered this mode of time travel: I go forward in time without my realizing and sometimes I have to grapple my way back to the present. But as for the going back in time, I feel quite confident. I can close my eyes and go back to my favorite place: my hometown in Seoul that I left when I was eight. Though it still physically exists exactly where it was twenty years ago, my hometown that I had left has since disappeared. Though I can still look it up online and enjoy satellite photos of the place from different angles, the air is different, breathed by people I don’t recognize. The apartments that are lined up like books have new paint on them, and everything that was so familiar and comforting – my favorite stationery store, our village playground that was literally just a crude and very dangerous metal installation, and my favorite TV programs that aired in the evenings – they’re all gone. And I’m as unfamiliar to my hometown as it is to me.

            But I still have the place inside me, and so I go back to it sometimes. When life becomes quite hard to bear, I close my eyes and go back. Pretend that the helicopters outside the townhouse I’m living in are the helicopters that roamed above the apartments. Imagine that outside my door isn’t the hallway to the building but the dining room of my childhood home, where my mom is cooking dinner and setting the table at the same time. Standing in her view is my dad, who has just come home from work. It’s dark outside and I think the first snow of the year is falling beyond the glass window that’s decorated with Christmas lights. Red, green, and yellow lights blink to the sound of my sister and I, who are giggling and jumping around my dad, who is smiling his gentle and kind smile. I see myself, the younger and livelier version of me – running to my mom and telling her what Dad just said. Then I see the little girl sliding her way back to the living room where my dad and sister are, where the big box of a TV is on, near a Santa doll that moves when you clap at it. And I see that this girl, who is as tall as my waist, is overwhelmed with something that is unmistakenly pure joy as she moves her body side to side like she’s dancing to silent music.

            There are side effects to this mode of time travel. For one, it may cause melancholy and nostalgia hard to get over. So, the other mode of travel that I find myself leaning towards more often is the mode done through words. It’s the travel done when a person reads words on a page and is, as testified by so many bibliophiles, transported mentally to a different era, location, and world, even. For instance, I’ve traveled all over the place across all time periods, including Ancient Egypt, Rome, Judea, and colonial Connecticut, thanks to history textbooks, historical fiction, and even sources like diaries, journals, and letters. Some words, like those found in science fiction or fantasy, introduce the reader to new places of endless possibilities: a world where there’s a school for wizards and witches, a world engineered to have no pain or suffering, or a dystopian world that’s worse than the one we’re living in. This type of time travel really has no side effects aside from the fact that the traveler might lose sense of time. But how great is it that you can visit the Incan Empire all from the comfort of your home, sitting on a sofa? No flight tickets, things to remember to pack, or any other thing to consider; just an hour or two to delve inside the words on the pages. Another perk is the fact that you can visit the Incan Empire at its prime, without all the ruins, and meet people from the era when it thrived.

            I think another great aspect of this mode is that it allows one to travel inside another’s mind, not just to a place, time, or world. The words take one inside the thoughts of the writer or the narrator and in the process, one gets to explore experiences and perspectives one never knew or even thought about. What better way to learn to empathize and become aware of others and not just yourself? And what great way to realize that the world is so much bigger than just yourself and those around you and to find out that you are not alone in your experience, whatever it may be? But if your life is truly a one-of-a-kind story, how wonderful is it that you can write and share to the world and connect with those who felt something from your words? And so, I propose that we all learn to time travel, not just to travel anywhere at any time but so that we empathize, understand, and connect.

            From,

            The Time Traveler


Thanks for reading!

Photographs by Annie Spratt

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Visiting Ursula K. Le Guin’s Childhood Home in Berkeley, CA

It just happened so that I read Ursula K. Le Guin’s A Wizard of Earthsea in Berkeley, the very city where the author had grown up in. And so, after finishing the wonderful fantasy novel (for the full review of A Wizard of Earthsea, click HERE), I just had to look up any place in Berkeley associated with the novel and its author. And, lo and behold, I found the address to Ursula K. Le Guin’s childhood home!

The UC Berkeley campus. Summer 2022.

The Significance of Le Guin’s Childhood Home

The author’s old house was recently listed, I believe, at around 4 million dollars. There were articles about the house, mainly from The Sacramento Bee where you can read all about it and even view a video of the house’s interiors!

Now, one may wonder – why the big fuss over an author’s childhood home? Well, besides the obvious (that it was the home of the brilliant author who wrote the Earthsea novels), it actually seems to have played a significant role in her life and literary works. So much so that she is said to have written about the very home in an essay called, “Living in a Work of Art.”

Here’s what Le Guin said about her childhood home in Berkeley:

“If I recall my childhood, I recall that house. It is where everything happened. It is where I happened. Writing this, I wonder if much of my understanding of what a novel ought to be was taught to me, ultimately, by living in that house. If so, perhaps all my life I have been trying to rebuild it around me out of words.”

Quote from SF Gate and Lit Hub.

After coming across this quote, I simply had to visit the place myself!

I mean, technically, Le Guin’s childhood home is where the magic of Earthsea began! 📷 by Diane Picchiottino.

Not to mention the fact that it was designed by Bernard Maybeck in 1907 – over 100 years ago! (116 years, to be exact.)

Getting There

Le Guin’s childhood home, aka the Albert Schneider House, is located at 1325 Arch Street, in a neighborhood in North Berkeley. It’s a bit far off from the famous UC Berkeley campus; it takes from 25 to 30 minutes from the campus to the house on foot:

Snapshot of the actual Google Map direction I used!

And I must say, that it was quite a hike! 1325 Arch St was up on the hills, overlooking Berkeley and the rest of the Bay. I do not recommend visiting on a hot day!

Journey to 1325 Arch St

Alas, I happened to visit on a very hot day, so I made my way to Le Guin’s childhood home huffing and puffing like some determined fan girl. The journey was strenuous with all that upward powerwalk, but I could not contain my excitement as I got closer and closer to my desired destination.

1325 Arch St

When I finally stood in front of the actual house Le Guin had grown up and lived in, I was completely breathless.

1325 Arch St!

The dark, wooden house was being worked on by some construction/repair workers who I think were fixing up the place for the new resident who had just purchased the place. I so wanted to enter the open entrance and explore within; yet, I checked myself to not trespass.

The entrance to the house. It was open ajar with sounds coming from within.

Instead I looked from out on the streets, marveling at the mystical structure that held Ursula Le Guin’s childhood memories. At the open windows and the (what appeared to be) pea trees hovering over the entrance, I wondered if those had been there when the Le Guins had called the place their home.

My Experience

If I hadn’t researched beforehand, I would not have known that this house was Le Guin’s childhood home! I half-expected there to be signs or something signaling its ties to the fantasy novelist. But there were none.

To stand before the actual house felt surreal. The neighborhood was peaceful and quiet, with a few cars passing by from time to time. I half-expected there to be other tourists like myself and perhaps signs signaling the house’s ties to Le Guin, but there weren’t anything like that.

One Asian lady living across from Le Guin’s childhood home looked at me with a wary eye as I was taking way too many photos of the author’s house from all angles imaginable. It looked as if she didn’t know that the house she lived across from wasn’t just any house.

Or, maybe she did but she didn’t care for Le Guin’s works. Whichever the case, she sure is lucky! From the second floor of her own house, she could probably enjoy the view that Le Guin herself enjoyed from 1325 Arch St.

The View from 1325 Arch St

View of the Bay from Berkeley, CA.

Though I haven’t had the chance to go inside, I can conjecture from the outside that the view from the top floors at 1325 Arch St would be splendid. I mean, I was able to see the Bay while walking up to the house, and despite the trees and other obstacles blocking the view, it was still delightful. I can only imagine how breathtaking the view must be from up on the second level.

View of San Francisco, CA from the North Berkeley neighborhood where 1325 Arch St is.

According to The Spaces, there are 3 bedrooms on the second floor, with the master bedroom having “views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco from its windows and private balcony” (The Spaces Team). Yup, the view would be simply breathtaking!

View of the Bay from Indian Rock Park in North Berkeley, CA.

Perhaps the view inspired the lands and seas of Earthsea Le Guin crafted in her works:

Snapshot of the map of the Earthsea world drawn by the author herself.

Around 1325 Arch St

Though there wasn’t a sign that read, “Hometown of Ursula K. Le Guin,” there were little book boxes, i.e. little free libraries that I spotted here and there. It was quite befitting for the neighborhood the Earthsea author had grown up in.

Free library shaped like a train! 🚂

There was also this stairway in the neighborhood that led up to the Berkeley Rose Garden, a city-owned park with rose terraces and tennis courts. (The Berkeley Rose Garden requires a post of its own, so I won’t go in detail.)

Conclusion

If you also find Ursula Le Guin’s Earthsea novels to be some of the best fantasy novels ever written, then I highly recommend visiting 1325 Arch St if you’re in the area. You won’t find any signs, pamphlets or souvenirs, but you will be visiting a special place where a remarkable author had grown up in. It’s a fun quest/rewarding workout/intensive hike to go on for Earthsea fans and history buffs alike.


P.S. Upon further research, I came across the official website for Le Guin’s childhood home! Here’s the link: https://www.maybeckarchitecture.com/

P.P.S. Check out the whimsical My Coffee Roastery if you’re in Berkeley! Click HERE for the full review.

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Applying to EPIK: Not So Epic Experience (PART I)

After working for a company for about two years, I left in search of a new one. It’s not that I disliked the company or my colleagues. In fact, my job was very fulfilling, my superiors and teammates great, and I loved the industry that I worked in. But with the onset of the pandemic, I realized that the work I was limited to was not something that I wished to do in the long run. So I left in pursuit of a different role that I could see myself doing even decades from now.

On top of that, my family decided to move back to South Korea and I needed to find a job that could ensure my independent survival.

It was then that the idea of teaching English abroad dawned on me.

Why not teach English abroad? Photo by Element5 Digital.

Why not travel abroad to South Korea for a year to teach English and have housing provided for me by the English abroad program? The program offered paid accommodation and flights as well as a severance bonus. It seemed perfect!

(There are many different programs for teaching English abroad, from the ones in Taiwan, Japan, South Korea to Spain, Czech Republic, and United Arab Emirates.)

Flag of the Republic of Korea (South Korea). Photo by Lauren Seo.

EPIK Overview:

Acronym for “English Program in Korea,” EPIK is a one-year program where citizens from English speaking countries (now only accepting applicants from Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the U.K., Unites States, and South Africa) can go to South Korea to teach English in public schools.

Established back in 1995, EPIK is affiliated with and sponsored by the Korean Ministry of Education. Check out the official website HERE.

1) Applying to EPIK for the Fall 2021 Term

As excited as I was to teach and travel, I began my application immediately. It was the May of 2021 when I started the process, and the deadline was sometime in July. For the timeline EPIK created for the application procedures, visit this page.

I reasoned there was enough time for me to submit my application.

And I did. By the end of May, I was able to gather all the required documents for the initial application except for the second letter of recommendation, which was scheduled to arrive on the first week of June.

But the application for the Fall 2021 term, out of nowhere, closed on May 24, 2021 in KST.

I don’t remember the exact time in KST that the application closed. Neither am I certain about May 24th. Perhaps it was May 25th. But I do remember clearly that the application closed on the last week of May, because I was beyond disappointed about how randomly the application closed. And EPIK neither put this important update on its website nor did it announce it beforehand; I was able to find out about this news only when I went inside my application portal.

So I could not apply for the Fall 2021 intake.

Photo by Tim Mossholder.

2) Applying to EPIK (again) for the Spring 2022 Term

As upset as I was, I was far from giving up. Since I had all my materials ready, I decided to retry for the Spring 2022 Term. The timeline for the Spring term showed that the application opened in August. This time, I was going to submit my application the week it opened.

The Spring 2022 application opened on August 23rd, 2021.

But to my unpleasant surprise, the required documents had changed. For the Spring 2022 term, EPIK required applicants to submit an “Apostilled CRC” in addition to the…

– Online Application
– Professional Photo
– Two Letters of Recommendation
– Proof of English Education
– Lesson Plan Worksheet/Handout Samples

The Criminal Record Check Process

So, at this point, the only thing I was missing was the apostilled national-level criminal record check. And as naïve as I was, I decided to go ahead and try to attain it. If I had known beforehand how much I’d spend and what would happen, I would not have started the process.

Referring to various websites and EPIK’s own guidelines, I went ahead and applied for an FBI criminal record check through one of the approved channelers. EPIK writes that “applying directly through the FBI for a CRC is an incredibly time consuming process that can take multiple months.” So, as directed, I chose an approved channeler called Inquiries Screening.

For a complete list of FBI-Approved Channelers, visit HERE.

Inquiries Screening

Long story short, I paid Inquiries Screening $45 to do the job. They requested that I mail the FBI Departmental Order Submission Form along with 2 separate sets of fingerprint cards to them. To get my fingerprints done, I had to go to a post office and spend $62 to get two sets of inked fingerprints, as duplicate copies were not accepted. After paying a total of about a $100 and waiting for about two days, I received a link from Inquiries that gave me access to my background check.

*TIP: Inquiries Screening did a good job, but I was told by the post office lady that it is way more convenient (and cheap) to use a channeler named “Biometrics4All.” Here is their info posted on fbi.gov:

Biometrics4All, Inc.
www.applicantservices.com
(714) 568-9888

The Apostilling Process – Monument Visa

Now that I had attained my criminal record check, I needed to have it apostilled by the U.S. State Department. To do so, I contacted Monument Visa, which appeared to be the most trusted, popular choice. For a service fee of $55 (plus the Fedex 2-3 Business Shipping of $20), I successfully requested to get my criminal record check apostilled through Monument Visa.

Finally Submitting My EPIK Application

Now I was able to submit my application, as I finally had all the required documents for the initial application. Although my criminal record check wasn’t apostilled yet, EPIK wrote on its guidelines that either one of the following were required for the initial application:

– “A scan of a nationally apostilled national-level criminal record check dated on or after August 1st, 2021. Please review the “Required Documents” section of our website for details on which documents are acceptable and how to obtain them.

OR

– “A scan of a non-apostilled national-level criminal record check dated on or after August 21st, 2021 + a scan of proof of application for a national apostille (receipt, e-mail confirmation, scan of application for apostille, proof of payment, etc.). Acceptable proof will be determined by the EPIK Office. If you have inquiries on this, please email [email protected].”

Using the second option, I successfully submitted my EPIK application on August 27th, just 4 days after the application opened. Along with the non-apostilled criminal record check and proof of application for a national apostille, I submitted my online application with the two letters of recommendation, lesson plan, hand out, an official TEFL certificate as well as the required essays.

Seoul, here I come! Photo by Cait Ellis.

In total, I spent $182 to submit my EPIK application. I could have saved much more if I had chosen a different channeler and requested the documents even earlier on to save on shipping. But even if I had, I would have had to spend about $100.

Be aware: applying to EPIK will NOT be cheap nor easy.

A Ridiculous Announcement

After submitting my application and required materials, I minded my own business and went about my daily tasks. But from time to time, I checked in on EPIK-related news, since EPIK sometimes made crucial changes without properly announcing them (i.e. my experience during the Fall 2021 application term). I periodically checked their Facebook page, YouTube channel, as well as their official website.

Lo and behold, I saw an unbelievable update saying that changes had been made to the application process for the Spring 2022 term. It was as follows:

Due to various delays in criminal record check (CRC) and apostille processing times in many countries caused by COVID-19, we have decided to postpone the requirement for an apostilled CRC at the time of application for the Spring 2022 term. Applicants applying on or after 13:00PM on September 6th KST will not need to upload an apostilled national level criminal record check (CRC) with their initial online application.

– The EPIK Team –

So EPIK made the change for the Spring 2022 term that required all applicants to submit an apostilled national level criminal record check only to repeal it a few weeks afterwards. And as an early, eager applicant, I had wasted my energy, time and money on it. On something that was now unnecessary in order to apply.

I wanted to cry. (Photo by Matthew Henry).

There you have it. My not so epic experience applying to EPIK.

But wait. It’s not over yet… 🙁

Check out my next post, “Applying to EPIK: Not So Epic Experience (PART II – The EPIK Interview)”.